Pelage hair follicles were isolated by gentle microdissection from 8-12-day-old rats, and maintained in supplemented Williams E medium. Length measurements made on freshly isolated hair follicles, and at 24-h intervals, showed a significant increase in hair follicle length over 48 h, after which time no further significant increase in length was observed. Photomicrographs of maintained follicles showed that this increase in hair follicle length could be attributed to the production of a keratinized hair shaft. Histology and [methyl-3H] thymidine autoradiography of freshly isolated hair follicles showed the dermal papilla to be elongated, with thymidine uptake located predominantly in the matrix cells of the hair follicle bulb adjacent to the dermal papilla. This pattern remained unaltered for the first 48 h of maintenance, but after 72 h the dermal papilla had rounded into a tight ball of cells, with very little thymidine uptake occurring in the adjacent matrix cells. On maintenance, fetal calf serum (FCS), epidermal growth factor (EGF) and 12-o-tetradecanoyl phorbol 13-acetate (TPA) all significantly stimulated [methyl-3H] thymidine and [U-14C] leucine uptake, but inhibited hair follicle elongation. Insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1) had no significant effect on rates of hair follicle elongation and [methyl-3H] thymidine uptake, but significantly stimulated rates of [U-14C] leucine uptake. Transforming growth factor-beta 1 (TGF-beta 1) significantly inhibited both the rate of [methyl-3H] thymidine uptake and hair follicle elongation.

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The immune system may be involved in the regulation of normal hair follicle growth as well as in the pathogenesis of some hair diseases. Immunomodulatory cytokines not only act as mediators of immunity and inflammation but also regulate cell proliferation and differentiation and, as such, may play an important part in regulating hair growth. We have investigated the effects of a number of interleukins (IL), colony stimulating factors and tumour necrosis factors (TNF) on hair follicle growth in vitro. Dose-response studies showed that IL-1 alpha, IL-1 beta and TNF-alpha were potent inhibitors of hair follicle growth. The histology of hair follicles maintained with inhibitory doses of IL-1 alpha, IL-1 beta and TNF-alpha showed similar changes in hair follicle morphology, resulting in the formation of dystrophic anagen hair follicles. These changes in histology were characterized by the condensation and distortion of the dermal papilla, marked vacuolation of the hair follicle matrix, abnormal keratinization of the follicle bulb and inner root sheath, disruption of follicular melanocytes and the presence of melanin granules within the dermal papilla. Moreover, these changes in hair follicle morphology are similar to those reported in alopecia areata and suggest that IL-1 alpha, IL-1 beta and TNF-alpha may play an important part in the pathophysiology of inflammatory hair disease.

To help elucidate the factors responsible for the infundibular changes seen in acne, the human sebaceous pilosebaceous infundibulum was isolated by microdissection and maintained for 7 d in keratinocyte serum-free medium supplemented with 50 micrograms/ml bovine pituitary extract, 100 units/ml penicillin and streptomycin, 2.5 micrograms/ml amphotericin B and CaCl2(10H2O) to give a final Ca2+ concentration of 2 mM. Infundibular structure was maintained over 7 d in this medium; the pattern of cell division mimicked that in vivo. The rate of cell division was significantly higher than previously described for infundibula maintained in supplemented William's E medium, and moreover did not fall over 7 d. The addition of 1 ng/ml interleukin-1 alpha (IL-1 alpha) caused hypercornification of the infundibulum similar to that seen in comedones; this could be blocked by 1000 ng/ml interleukin-1 receptor antagonist (IL-1ra). In about 20% of subjects there was spontaneous hypercornification of the infundibulum that could be blocked by 1000 ng/ml IL-1ra, suggesting that the infundibulum is capable of synthesising IL-1 alpha. The addition of 5 ng/ml epidermal growth factor or 5 ng/ml transforming growth factor-alpha to the medium caused a disorganisation of the keratinocytes of the infundibulum that resulted in rupturing similar to that seen in the more severe, purulent grades of acne. The addition of 1 microM 13-cis retinoic acid caused a significant reduction in the rate of DNA synthesis and apparent parakeratosis. We are now, therefore, able to model histologically the major infundibular changes in acne.