The phase behavior and lipid mixing properties of an equimolar mixture of nonhydroxylated palmitoyl ceramide (Cer16), palmitic acid (PA), and cholesterol have been investigated using 2H NMR and vibrational spectroscopy. This mixture is formed by the three main classes of lipids found in the stratum corneum (SC), the top layer of the epidermis, and provides an optimized hydrophobic matching. Therefore, its behavior highlights the role played by hydrophobic matching on the phase behavior of SC lipids. We found that, below 45 degrees C, the mixture is essentially formed of coexisting crystalline domains with a small fraction of lipids (less than 20%) that forms a gel or fluid phase, likely ensuring cohesion between the solid domains. Upon heating, there is the formation of a liquid ordered phase mainly composed of PA and cholesterol, including a small fraction of Cer16. This finding is particularly highlighted by correlation vibrational microspectroscopy that indicates that domains enriched in cholesterol and PA include more disordered Cer16 than those found in the Cer16-rich domains. Solubilization of Cer16 in the fluid phase occurs progressively upon further heating, and this leads to the formation of a nonlamellar self-assembly where the motions are isotropic on the NMR time scale. It is found that the miscibility of Cer16 with cholesterol and PA is more limited than the one previously observed for ceramide III extracted from bovine brain, which is heterogeneous in chain composition and includes, in addition to Cer16, analogous ceramide with longer alkyl chains that are not hydrophobically matched with cholesterol and PA. Therefore, it is inferred that, in SC, the chain heterogeneity is a stronger criteria for lipid miscibility than chain hydrophobic matching.

Stacked intercellular lipid membranes in the uppermost epidermal layer, the stratum corneum (SC), are responsible for skin's barrier function. These membranes are unique in composition, the major lipids being ceramides (Cer), cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFA) in approximately equimolar proportions. Notably, SC lipids include chains much longer than those of most biological membranes. Previously we showed that Cer's small hydrophilic headgroup enabled SC model membranes composed of bovine brain ceramide (BBCer), cholesterol, and palmitic acid in equimolar proportion to solidify at pH 5.2. In order to determine the influence of FFA chain length on the phase behavior of such membranes, we used 2H NMR and FT-IR to study BBCer/cholesterol/FFA dispersions containing linear saturated FFA 14-22 carbons long. Independent of chain length, the solid phase dominated the FFA spectrum at physiological temperature. Upon heating, each dispersion underwent phase transitions to a liquid crystalline phase (only weakly evident for the membrane containing FFA-C22) and then to an isotropic phase. The phase behavior, the lipid mixing properties, and the transition temperatures are shown to depend strongly on FFA chain length. A distribution of FFA chain lengths is found in the SC and could be required for the coexistence of a proportion of solid lipids with some more fluid domains, which is known to be necessary for normal skin barrier function.

Ethanol is used in a variety of topical products. It is known to enhance the permeability of the skin by altering the ability of the stratum corneum (SC) intercellular membranes to form an effective barrier. In addition, ethanol and other alcohols are key components of antiseptic gels currently used for hand wash. Using infrared and deuterium NMR spectroscopy as well as calorimetry, we have investigated the effect of ethanol on a model membrane composed of lipids representing the three classes of SC lipids, an equimolar mixture of N-palmitoylsphingosine (ceramide), palmitic acid and cholesterol. Ethanol is found to influence the membrane in a dose dependent manner, disrupting packing and increasing lipid motion at low concentrations and selectively extracting lipids at moderate concentrations.