The formation of radicals plays an important role in the development of atopic eczema or barrier-disrupted skin. We evaluated the radical scavenging effect of a cream containing a Hypericum perforatum extract rich in hyperforin in a double-blind placebo-controlled study on 11 healthy volunteers. Electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy was applied to determine radical formation during VIS/NIR irradiation of the inner forearm. The results were compared to ex vivo investigations on excised porcine ear skin after a single application of the creams. The non-treated skin was measured as control. The absolute values and the kinetics are not comparable for ex vivo and in vivo radical formation. Whereas in vivo, the radical production decreases with time, it remains stable ex vivo over the investigated timescale. Nevertheless, ex vivo methods could be developed to estimate the protection efficiency of creams. In vivo as well as ex vivo, the radical formation could be reduced by almost 80% when applying the hyperforin-rich cream onto the skin, whereas placebo resulted in about 60%. In vivo, a daylong protection effect could be validated after a 4-week application time of the cream indicating that a regular application is necessary to obtain the full effect.

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Organisms produce free radicals which are essential for various metabolic processes (enzymatic oxidation, cellular respiration, signaling). Antioxidants are important chemical compounds that specifically prevent the oxidation of substances by scavenging radicals, especially reactive oxygen species (ROS). Made up of one or two unpaired electrons, ROS are free radicals that are highly reactive and can attack other metabolites. By using electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy, it is possible to measure paramagnetic substances such as free radicals. Therefore the dermal antioxidant activity can be determined by applying semi-stable radicals onto the skin and measuring the antioxidant-induced radical scavenging activity in the skin. In recent years, EPR has been OPEN ACCESS Cosmetics 2015, 2 287 developed as a spectroscopic method for determining the antioxidant status in vivo. Several studies have shown that an additional uptake of dietary supplements, such as carotenoids or vitamin C in physiological concentrations, provide a protective effect against free radicals. Using the EPR technique it could be demonstrated that the radical production in stress situations, such as irradiation with infrared and visible light, was reduced with time. However, not only the oral uptake of antioxidants, but also the topical application of antioxidants, e.g., a hyperforin-rich cream, is very useful against the development of oxidative stress. Regular application of a hyperforin-rich cream reduced radical formation. The skin lipids, which are very important for the barrier function of the skin, were also stabilized.

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