Hızlı modanın üretim ve tüketim stratejilerinin yarattığı yıkıcı etkilerin görünür hale gelmesi, modanın yeniden tanımlanmasını sağlayan etik ve ekolojik bir tasarım anlayışının benimsenmesine yol açmıştır. Böylece etik moda 'Yavaş Moda Akımı' gibi yaratıcı söylemler geliştirmiş ve yerel zanaatları, adil ticareti, çok işlevli tasarım ürünlerini, katılımcı tasarımı, çevre dostu malzemelerin kullanımını ve geri dönüşümle değer kazandırılan tasarımları yücelten bir yapıya kavuşmuştur. Ancak küresel moda ekonomisi tarafından ticarileştirilerek asimile de olmuştur. Etik moda, başat sistem içerisinde tüketilebilen bir trende dönüştürülürken, sanal ortamda varlık gösteren niş bir medya ile beslenen alternatif bir tasarım hareketi olarak sınırlı kalmıştır. Bu makalede, etik modanın tasarım ve üretim stratejileri bağlamında söylemsel ve ticari temsiliyeti ele alınarak ana akım ve alternatif medyada yer alan haberlerin geriye dönük okuması yapılmıştır. Böylece etik modanın vaat ettiği 'etik olma' sözü, medya analizi üzerinden deşifre edilmiştir.
Traditional textiles have played a crucial role in creating awareness as cultural heritage and building a cultural identity and sustainability in contemporary design culture in Turkey. However, traditional textile weaving is threatened with extinction due to the need for specialist skills involved in hand weaving, the rapid growth of industrial production is facing with the treat of extinction. This study aims to focus on the regional development of traditional textiles, which is a potential source of support for local economies, thus contributing to increase the value of the material, and emphasizing cultural identity. In this respect, local silk textile production in Ödemiş, Birgi villages in İzmir, and the use of silk fabrics as ethnical sources for design inspiration will be analyzed as a representative of the collective memory of Turkish design culture. Correspondingly, two well-known Turkish designers, Zühal Yorgancıoğlu and Esin Yılmaz, works will be analyzed through interpretation of their design works. This analysis will be based on the concepts of local and cultural identity, authenticity, sustainability, collective memory and intergenerational equity in terms of interaction of traditional textiles with contemporary design culture. Hazel Clark gives the example of Brazilian case which the worldwide designers such as Rosa Cha, Carlos Miele and Campana Brothers, have become notable through their "Latin" style. This style involves local culture in the form of women's collections from favalas, in the production process. Through this system, the design industry has made an important traditional textiles, cultural identity, collective memory, material culture, intergenerational equity
The linear production model of the conventional fashion industry creates "pre-consumption waste" which has devastating environmental impacts. This study focuses on 'Cut-and-sew waste', a type of pre-consumption waste which occurs in the pattern cutting phase of the design development process. Thus, the aim of the study is to determine the scope of Turkish fashion industry's cut-and-sew waste problem, and identify its waste management strategies. Through an analysis on Turkey's fashion industry, the study addresses "cut-and-sew waste, through an analysis of the opportunities for, and limitations to, the creation of a sustainable design and production system to improve waste management. As a part of the study, a survey was conducted with women's wear manufacturers producing their own brands in the Turkish fashion industry. A semi-structured questionnaire, responded to by 84 clothing manufacturers, identified the level of the cut-and sew waste problem, and possible waste management strategies are proposed. Data were collected regarding production methods, revealing waste rates within the preparation of the 2016 spring/summer collection. The findings illustrate the current state of the waste problem, and levels of awareness of the fashion industry towards the environmental effects of waste, and the need for waste management strategies.
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