This study of two new total hand simulating methods for knits uses fuzzy theory and neural networks. One method, a neural network system trained with a back-propaga tion algorithm, performs functional mapping between mechanical properties and the resulting total hand values of the fuzzy predicting method. The second method, a fuzzy-neural network system, uses the fuzzy membership function, weighted factor vector, and error back-propagation algorithm. The principal mechanical properties of stretchiness, bulkiness, flexibility, distortion, weight, and surface roughness of the knitted fabrics are correlated with experimentally determined Kawabata total hand values and fuzzy transformed overall hand values. Fuzzy and neural networks agree better with the subjective test results than the KES-FB system. The mechanical prop erties are fuzzified by fuzzy membership functions, then trained to predict the total hand value of outerwear knitted fabrics. In each case, the prediction error is less than the standard deviation of experimentation, and the optimum structure is investigated. These two systems, which use the Pascal programming language, produce objective ratings of outerwear knit fabrics.
The mechanical and handle properties of three groups of double weft-knitted fabrics are measured using the KES-FB system. The double-jersey fabrics consist of double weft-knitted structures (knit, tuck, and welt stitches), and are further divided according to density and then fully relaxed. For hand measurements, seven principal physical and mechanical properties are selected (EMT, RT, RC, B, 2HG, w, MIU), which are related to four possible ways of deformation in double weft-knitted fabrics. The importance of their characteristics is deduced from a survey of a panel of thirty judges. Primary hand and total hand values from the KES-FB are analyzed and compared with our alternative simplified fuzzy total hand test result. The results from the new method for double weft-knitted fabrics provide experts with meaningful values in comparison with Ka wabata's total hand values.
Two sets of single wool weft-knitted fabrics made from conventional yarn and lincLITE®, which was developed by the Wool Research Organization of New Zealand in an effort to make a softer and bulkier wool, are used to analyze a total hand evaluation model for outerwear knitted fabrics. Mechanical properties and total hand value are measured on the KES-FB system, and three kinds of fuzzy membership functions (a decreasing halfCauchy equation and two linear functions, increasing or decreasing) are used to calculate fuzzified overall hand values of the knitted fabrics. The weighted factor vectors surveyed by a Korean panel are strongly related to those of a New Zealand panel. Based on these surveys, we calculate the total hand value of the KES-FB and the fuzzy model. The latter results show that the bulkiness of single wool fabric knitted from lincLITE yarn is a little higher than the same fabric knitted from conventional yarn. Furthermore, the fuzzy total hand evaluation from the Korean panel is highly correlated with the result of the New Zealanders.Previous papers [20. 21 have reported on measurements and fuzzy models for double weft-knitted fabrics on the basis of seven mechanical properties. The hand of knitted fabrics can be affected by fiber type, yarn size, fabric structure, fabric geometry, and finish [1, 7. 9].There has been a great interest in hand evaluation due to the introduction of various kinds of knitted fabrics [ 1, 5, 6, l 1 ] and technical improvements of new synthetic or natural fibers [1, 6]. As new fibers and blends have developed, considerable work has focused on the physical and mechanical properties of fabrics, such as hand and drape [t. 6, 12, 14]. Considering the standardization of hand evaluation, a more effective link for hand is needed to predict the overall hand of knitted fabrics made from conventional and newly developed yarns.The Kawabata fabric evaluation system (KES-FB) provides an objective specification of hand value and total hand value on the basis of mechanical properties, but the system is not appropriate for knitted fabrics that have comparatively high flexibility and stretchiness [ 19]. However, mechanical properties such as bulkiness, flexibility, stretchiness, distortion, weight, and smoothness are recognized as important components for good comfort and quality knits [5,8,9,12,16,23]. Thus, an objective hand technique is needed for better evaluations of knitted fabrics.In this paper, we measure the mechanical properties of two knitted fabrics and then calculate the total hand value using the KES-FB system. We also analyze a fuzzy transformation function [20-23, 25, 26]. We focus on a fuzzy hand evaluation model and a comparison of total hand values by two evaluation methods for plain wool knitted fabrics of HncUTE~ and conventional yams. Experimental SPECIMEN PREPARATIONFor the study, single plain fabrics were knitted from two kinds of raw materials. lincLITE and conventional yam. Figures I is a representation of lincLITE yam. which was made from 100~c merino wool. A...
Two-bar warp knitted structures are grouped by cluster analysis of mechanical and physical properties, and the resulting classified groups show distinctive characteristics. The first group represents highly smooth, full and soft properties compared with other groups, and the characteristics of the second group are less smooth, full and soft. The fabrics of the third group are very stiff and smooth, and those of the last group are the least stiff, smooth, full, and soft. By analyzing the structures within and between groups, the structural parameters affecting the overall properties of warp knitted fabrics are deter mined. The results show that the formalized factors affecting the characteristics of warp knitted fabrics are the run-in ratio, pillar-lapping movement, direction of mutual guide bar movement with parallel or counter lapping, and closed or open lap type.
Quasi-retroreflection from corner-cube structures with a refractive free-form surface is studied. It is shown that adjustment of the structural parameters of the free-form surface allows control of quasi-retroreflection. Quasi-retroreflection corner-cube array sheets with specified quasi-retroreflection angle are modeled, and their quasi-retroreflection characteristics are analyzed.
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