Organic and biodynamic methods of cultivation present particular challenges for the production of wine in a terroir-based system. This remains underexplored in academic work, yet it represents the confluence of two important contemporary trends in the wine industry. In this article, I draw upon interviews and participant observation with wine producers in the French region of Burgundy to examine emergent tensions between terroir and environmentally sustainable modes of production. Following an introduction to the subject, in the first section of the article I show how claims made about vineyard soils operated within the context of a simultaneously agronomic, environmental and cultural notion of terroir. In the second, I show how organic and biodynamic wine producers drew my attention to ecological dimensions of terroir by reference to things that could be appreciated aesthetically in the landscape. Reflecting on producers’ opinions, media coverage and wider scholarship, I make some initial steps in examining how environmentally sustainable modes of production are rhetorically and practically mobilised in the service of the widely shared notion of terroir, and, by extension, how these modes of production shape the sense of terroir that is promulgated in the cultural, economic and political organisation of wine.
The originally French term terroir has long been used to denote the qualities of a place which influence the qualities of a product such as wine. It has many wider connotations, but in terms of the aptitude of a grape‐growing area of land, is often supposed to rest upon a solid geological basis. Whilst bedrock of some kind is necessary for the formation of soil, and the subsequent cultivation of grapevines, the kind of rock varies widely across wine‐producing areas of the world. Yet in the appreciation of wine, it is sometimes supposed that things like limestone, granite, and chalk may be tasted in the product, signal the terroir it has come from, and justify its reputation. In this commentary I suggest that such evocation of geology forms part of the commercial positioning of wine, but that its over‐use can draw attention away from viticultural opportunity, practice, and savoir‐faire, as well as the rhetorical nature of terroir's communication.
The Salon International de l’Agriculture, held every spring in Paris, is an event at which the public discover, judge and consume the fruit of France’s diverse agricultural and artisanal activities. In this article, I provide a firsthand account of how the event stages the imaginative geography of France’s regions, facilitates the edible appreciation of French cultural goods and stimulates dialogue among producers, politicians and the public. The Salon is an impressive and understudied event at which we can witness and participate in the making of culinary geographies.
Purpose This paper aims to situate restaurant experiences and in particular the wines available on wine lists, within the wider context of wine tourism. This is done by examining the wine lists of restaurants in two New Zealand destinations, focusing in particular on the showcasing of “local wines” and the factors behind these offerings, and outlines the potential implications for hospitality managers and a wider academic audience. Design/methodology/approach The population of restaurants in each destination was identified using online directories, from which a sample of wine lists, comprising 84 in Christchurch and 43 in Queenstown, was systematically analysed to identify number of wines, regional origin, price and other information. Following this, key informant interviews in restaurants in each destination explored decision-making factors in stocking local wines, including consumer base, existing networks and reputation and additional challenges and opportunities. Findings Restaurants in each destination offered more New Zealand than foreign wines on their lists, though significant regional differences are apparent. Queenstown restaurants offered slightly fewer imported wines and significantly more local (Central Otago) wines than Christchurch restaurants. The global awareness of Central Otago pinot noir is a factor in this wine list representation, but there are also other influences, including the greater concentration of overseas visitors (pre-pandemic) and more significant visibility and greater opportunities for wine tourism experiences within the destination. Originality/value This paper represents an important addition to academic research on wine marketing in the on-premise sector of emerging wine regions. This paper also highlights the potential significance of restaurant meals – including wine choices – in overall wine destination experiences and demonstrates differences in approach between restaurants in wine regions of similar size but with different reputations, international visitation and wine tourism infrastructure.
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