In the clothing industry, the understanding of the quality is a major issue to well meet the customer needs. The dilemma that faces manufacturers is to find the balance between good quality and "overquality," what the quality criteria are, and how to target requirements specifications. The aim of this study was to propose a multi-attribute ranking method of products. Ranking is based on an overall quality score. The quality score, here called consumer-based quality, is computed via the combination of textile testing and consumer perception to deterioration. Such a perception has been surveyed, and damage that can lead to end of life has been investigated. Collected data have been translated into a consumer sensitivity using multi-criteria decision making and fuzzy techniques. The fuzzy analytic hierarchy process has been used. Five damage categories have been weighted. A selection of appropriate tests according to standards has been completed to test the product resistance to the damage. The tests results have been computed with the consumer sensitivity to obtain the consumer-based quality score. Finally, the ranking method is applied on T-shirts, and a single score ranking is made possible and objectively depict perceived quality.

Design for longevity is known as an eco-design opportunity and could help to reduce the environmental footprint of energy-free items. However, extending the lifespan of products is not always desirable and the focus should be on achieving an optimal lifespan. Operationally, recommendations for design for longevity usually refer to durability, repairability, upgradability or emotional attachment. The use of high-quality and robust material is frequently stated, although it is not obvious what high-quality material is. Based on a quality by design approach, this study aims to propose a methodology to design for optimal longevity with a consumer-oriented approach. To do so, it includes data collection of product quality and manufacturing processes and then embeds consumers’ knowledge. These are combined into data analysis to help to highlight relationships and the most appropriate quality contributors. This methodology relies on three-steps: first, a single quality score which includes consumers’ knowledge; secondly, a multi-scale reverse-engineering process; and finally a data analysis using principal component analysis. The originality of such a proposal is that it enables the consumers’ knowledge to be considered in the identification of appropriated quality contributors. The proposed methodology is implemented in the fashion sector as it is said to be the second most polluting one. Moreover, given the huge variety of materials and production processes available in textiles, the selection of the most suitable recommendations to support a longer lifespan is very complex. The presented case study involves 29 T-shirts and reveals the mechanical-related strengths to be the main quality contributors.

Given the diversity of textile products, their uses and also the reasons related to their endof-life, it appears that estimating the effective lifespan of clothing items is unrealistic. To estimate a lifespan equivalent, a reasonable solution is to rely on standards commonly performed by the apparel industry. However, according to the international classification of standards, the textile and clothing sector benefits from more than 1.900 standards covering the aspects of processes, materials, semifinished and finished products. Thus, this paper focuses on how to make the standard selection consistent to estimate the product in accordance with the end of life of apparel. First, a list of objective clothing disposal reasons is proposed and is to associate to a standards pre-screening that enable the assessment of the ability of a product to withstand the damage. Then, since a single aggregated score is desired, the tests results are aggregated into a single normative duration index. In a robustness analysis, the influence of the number of metrological tests constituting the score is investigated. It enables the identification of the most appropriated tests with the aim to rationalize the methodology regarding time and cost consideration. In a case study, 29 T-shirts were tested regarding five damage categories. Based on expert knowledge and literature review, the laboratory tests procedure involved a selection of ten tests, out of which the five providing the maximum explanation rates were investigated.

The Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles (ENSAIT) is one of the few schools specialising in materials for the textile industry. Each year it graduates around 110 engineers whose role is to meet the challenges of the sector while respecting the values of the companies and environmental standards. The ENSAIT engineer's course takes place over three years. From the first year of the engineering cycle, a seminar on sustainable development is offered. It is held in the second semester and lasts two full days. The first objective is to make them aware of corporate social responsibility (CSR) issues in companies. The second is to build on the knowledge acquired during the last 6 months to develop the life cycle of a garment and understand the associated impacts. Finally, it is to highlight the different possible strategies based on eco-design, fair trade, taking into account the regulatory constraints. This seminar is based on active pedagogy, where students work in teams and compare their results with each other. It also aims to provide the minimum tools to understand ecodesign strategies and to be an informed fashion consumer, and to become a textile engineer capable of participating in and technically supporting companies' CSR initiatives.