The objective of this work was to compare milk fatty acid (FA) profile and texture and appearance of Cantal cheeses obtained from cows grazing 2 different upland grasslands: a highly diversified pasture (74 species) of area 12.5 ha managed under continuous mode (C), and a weakly diversified pasture (31 species) of area 7.7 ha (an old temporary grassland) managed under rotational mode (R). A control group of cows fed a hay-based diet (indoors, I) was used. Three equivalent groups of 12 Montbéliarde cows underwent the 3 treatments from May to September 2008. The cheeses were manufactured during 3 consecutive days in early June, early July, and late August (27 cheeses in all). The texture, appearance, and chemical composition of the cheeses were determined after 12 wk of ripening. Concentrations of total saturated FA and monounsaturated FA were higher and lower, respectively, in I milks compared with pasture milks. The concentrations of trans-11-C18:1 and cis-9-C18:1, and polyunsaturated FA as well as yellowness decreased during the season in C-derived milk but remained constant in R-derived milk, through a combined effect of grass development stage and the cows' grazing selection. The I cheeses were, on average, firmer, less creamy, less elastic, and less yellow than the pasture cheeses. Decreasing and increasing trends in texture firmness during the season were observed for C and R cheeses, respectively. The rind of the pasture-fed cow cheese had fewer, less intensely colored, and less prominent spots than did that of I cheeses. This difference was probably due to greater migration of fat to the rind during pressing because of the lower fat melting point of the pasture-fed cow cheeses, which had higher unsaturated FA content. The greater amounts of fat deposited on the rind of the pasture-fed cow cheeses may have partially inhibited the microbial activity responsible for rind appearance. Our trial underlines the importance of the effects of grazing management associated with vegetation type on milk and cheese characteristics.

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-A study was conducted to verify whether bulk milk produced according to specific conditions of production would lead to distinctive cheeses. Milk from two groups of farms that mainly differ in their level of intensification of dairy cow and forage area management was processed into cheese in the same Cantal dairy plant, during 4 periods of 3 consecutive days each. The milk chemical composition differed little between the two producing groups whereas the differences were greater between the processing periods because of the combined effects of the season, the mean lactation stage of the herds and cow feeding. Major chemical and microbiological differences were noted in ripened cheeses according to the cheesemaking period, especially between cheeses made in the winter and in the summer. The cheesemaking period and ripening time (6, 13 and 23 weeks) accounted for most of the variance noted in all the sensory characteristics of the cheeses, whereas the production system had a far lesser impact. With regards to odour and aroma, the spring and winter cheeses differed from the autumn and summer ones. With time, the cheeses became softer and melted more and tasted saltier and more pungent. The stronger characteristics were enhanced whereas milder flavours lost power, a trend that was more marked in the winter cheeses. On average, the cheeses made from the more extensive farms were more elastic and slightly less bitter and pungent. They were also characterised by their globally less intense odour and aroma characteristics. The differences between the two production systems were noticeable in cheeses made in the winter or spring and the most significant after 13 weeks of ripening. For other periods or other ripening time, the cheeses made from the 2 groups of farms were very close.

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