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Oil from the nuts of Calophyllum inophyllum, locally called "Tamanu oil" in French Polynesia, was traditionally used for wound healing and to cure various skin problems and ailments. The skin-active effect of "Tamanu oil emulsion" was investigated on human skin cells (keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts) and showed cell proliferation, glycosaminoglycan and collagen production, and wound healing activity. Transcriptomic analysis of the treated cells revealed gene expression modulation including genes involved in the metabolic process implied in O-glycan biosynthesis, cell adhesion, and cell proliferation. The presence of neoflavonoids as bioactive constituents in Tamanu oil emulsion may contribute to these biological activities. Altogether, consistent data related to targeted histological and cellular functions brought new highlights on the mechanisms involved in these biological processes induced by Tamanu oil effects in skin cells.

Calophyllum inophyllum L. (Calophyllaceae), locally called “tamanu” in French Polynesia, is an evergreen pantropical tree growing mostly along the seashores. Its barks, leaves, and fruits are still used in traditional medicine. The oil expressed from the nuts has been also traditionally used. Tamanu oil is topically applied on skins as well as mucous membrane lesions. This oil is especially recommended to heal all kinds of skin ailments. Bioassays and different assessments of Tamanu oil revealed numerous biological activities (antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, wound healing…), so bringing scientific evidence of beneficial effects of this oil on human skin healing. Such biological properties may explain the use of tamanu oil as an active cosmetic ingredient recorded as “Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil” by the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients). Most of the bioactive properties of tamanu oil are attributed to oil composition including the presence of resinous compounds in tamanu oil beside common fatty acids, which constitutes a unique characteristic of this healing oil. Actually, resinous part of tamanu oil is known to contain bioactive secondary metabolites mostly constituted by neoflavonoids including pyranocoumarin derivatives. Herein, chemical constituents and biological properties of tamanu oil are presented with a focus of its traditional use inspiring modern valuations related to cosmetic field.

Fronds of the fern Microsorum scolopendria are widely used in traditional medicine in the Society Islands. They were investigated for the presence of ecdysteroids, which might be responsible for at least some of their medicinal properties. M. scolopendria represents an excellent source of ecdysone (0.16% of dry weight) and 20-hydroxyecdysone (0.20%), and also contains significant amounts (0.01-0.02%) of makisterones A and C, inokosterone and amarasterone A, together with lower amounts of poststerone and of a compound tentatively identified as 24,28-diepi-cyasterone. During this study, three new minor phytoecdysteroids, namely 20-deoxymakisterone A, a 25(?)-epimer of amarasterone A and 25-deoxyecdysone 22-glucoside were also isolated by a combination of normal- and reversed-phase HPLC and subsequently identified by NMR.

The Polynesian medicinal fern Microsorum membranifolium contains very large amounts of ecdysteroids, including ecdysone, 20-hydroxyecdysone, 2-deoxy-20-hydroxyecdysone, and 2-deoxyecdysone. It also contains large amounts of unusual ecdysteroids which have been unambiguously identified by mass spectrometry and nuclear magnetic resonance. A new class of ecdysteroid conjugates (3-glucosyl-ferulates of 2-deoxyecdysone and 2-deoxy-20-hydroxyecdysone) is isolated, together with a new glycoside (2-deoxyecdysone 25-rhamnoside). The simultaneous presence of a sugar and an aromatic moiety results in a very particular chromatographic behavior of these conjugates. They behave like flavonoids and polyphenols when using the classical purification on polyamide, aimed at removing the latter from crude plant extracts, and would therefore be lost. They elute as non-polar ecdysteroids on reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography (RP-HPLC), whereas their behavior on normal-phase (NP) HPLC is strongly dependent on the mobile phase composition. Our data highlight the importance of selectivity in the choice of HPLC methods used for ecdysteroid separations.

Psidium cattleianum J. Sabine (Myrtaceae) is a traditional medicinal plant in French Polynesia. The leaves and roots possess many medicinal properties. These effects may be correlated with the presence of antioxidant compounds. Seven flavonoids along with a benzoic acid were isolated from the leaves of P. cattleianum. The compounds indicated strong antioxidant and radical-scavenging activities in ALP, DPPH(·), ABTS(·-) and ORAC assays. This study demonstrates that the leaves of P. cattleianum possess main compounds with interesting antioxidant and radical-scavenging activities, as clarified by four biological assays. Our findings may justify the use of these leaves in the traditional medicine of French Polynesia. Among the total eight known compounds, reynoutrin and luteolin were isolated for the first time from the genus Psidium.

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