Value streams for collected post-consumer textiles continue be analyzed within the global challenge to develop and employ commercially viable, yet ethical and sustainable strategies within the fashion industry. Upcycling is an existing strategy applicable to fashion production, with discarded materials used to design and create higher value products, keeping them in productive use for longer. A number of very small, niche upcycling enterprises have emerged in the UK. These brands have succeeded in creating stylistically relevant and commercially successful fashion styles utilizing waste textile materials. The advantages of scaling these enterprises up are not only environmental, but also economic and social, thereby creating a sustainable and innovative business model for UK led fashion production. Due to high levels of three key metrics of carbon, water and waste, UK government agency WRAP (Waste & Resources Action Programme) has identified textile products as priority materials for reuse and recycling. Upcycling enables a sustainable design option for reuse techniques to be employed for greatest economic and environmental benefit, in which used clothing and textiles are sourced for the production of newly designed fashion products. This paper identifies the key differences between standard fashion design and production processes and upcycled fashion design and production processes, in order to aid the development of large-scale fashion upcycling in the UK, and contribute to a circular economy.
This study presents a collaborative new product development (NPD) process model that accommodates different perspectives of stakeholders in an apparel value chain and expedites robust new product outcomes. Advanced technologies are demanded to establish such collaborative NPD process models. Virtual reality (VR) and augmented reality (AR) technologies have become prominent in product realisation during this process, to evaluate multiple alternatives. The study proposes a twofold approach where, in the first phase, a qualitative study was carried out to evaluate the viewpoint of value stream collaborators to study the potential opportunities and limitations of applying VR and AR in NPD process. In the second phase, a quantitative study was carried out to assess the apparel consumers' awareness on VR or AR applications, perceptions on such technologies, and intention to use such technologies in the context of apparel business. Data collection consisted of 10 in-depth interviews with experts in the industry and 94 survey responses from apparel consumers in the United Kingdom. It is concluded that VR and AR technologies will be enablers for NPD's success in the apparel industry in providing quick responses to consumers to enhance the performance of the new products.
Induced by persuasive social settings, the dilemma of what is considered as an ideal size, shape and body image continue to impact decisions consumers make regarding clothing selection and fashion. Body image has been identified as crucial to clothing provision and fashion consumption (Sproles and Burns 1994). In presenting methodological considerations in researching body cathexis for fashion products, Apeagyei et al. (2007) observed that body measurements alone is not the panacea to solving consumer sizing and fit problems and draw attention to the tension between body image and geometry. Generally, women are self-conscious about body cathexis (degree of satisfaction/dissatisfaction) with their physical forms. This does not only impact garment fit assessment and preferences but also affect self evaluations relating to body image. Instigated by the media, the desire to emulate celebrities and remain fashionable has been the current focus of consumers, as some try to fit into the socially construed ideal body type of 'the skinny trend'.
This chapter investigates the current techniques employed by upcycled and sustainable fashion brands to communicate the features and benefits of their products, as well as their benefits to consumers and society at large. At the same time we look at the effectiveness of these strategies in the modern fashion industry. An interpretivist methodology was utilised in this chapter, with 14 in-depth semi-structure interviews providing the basis for the findings and discussion section. Interviewees were selected purposively and include nine ethical fashion brands, and five sustainable fashion experts (CSR specialist, artist and mending activist, upcycled and sustainable fashion expert, and closed loop production experts). Findings included key industry perspectives on communication and consumer issues relating to sustainability, design and behaviour change. Insights about knowledge brands and designers believe consumers already hold, how this informs design and production decisions, and what issues brands and designers are still querying in consumer behaviour are presented. Information on the current strategies employed to communicate in-store and through multi-channel media, the effectiveness of these techniques and what brands and designers still want and need to know regarding these communication strategies are also covered.
Purpose -The paper seeks to evaluate and present the usability of one pattern customising technology in the achievement and testing of garment fit. Design/methodology/approach -This study focuses on the use of 3D technology in the testing of garment fit. It examines the usability of one pattern customising technology in the achievement and testing of fit and presents primary data from experiments on the provision and testing of garment fit of specified size patterns for a jacket and skirt. Findings on virtual and human fit trials and an evaluation of the 3D technology are presented. Findings -The study found that 3D software for fit provision and testing is still in its infancy, although advancements are currently being made in this area. It establishes that while fit can be virtually tested with 3D technology, its usability is not yet fine-tuned. It evaluates procedures and presents problematic features of the 3D software. It underscores that although some issues concerning efficient provision and testing of fit still exist, 3D technology overall provides adequate evaluation of fit.Originality/value -This study highlights areas for fine tuning and provides a basis for further research. While discussing usability of one pattern technology, this paper presents a platform for comparative evaluation of other technology.
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