A decrease in maximal O2 uptake has been demonstrated with increasing altitude. However, direct measurements of individual links in the O2 transport chain at extreme altitude have not been obtained previously. In this study we examined eight healthy males, aged 21-31 yr, at rest and during steady-state exercise at sea level and the following inspired O2 pressures (PIO2): 80, 63, 49, and 43 Torr, during a 40-day simulated ascent of Mt. Everest. The subjects exercised on a cycle ergometer, and heart rate was recorded by an electrocardiograph; ventilation, O2 uptake, and CO2 output were measured by open circuit. Arterial and mixed venous blood samples were collected from indwelling radial or brachial and pulmonary arterial catheters for analysis of blood gases, O2 saturation and content, and lactate. As PIO2 decreased, maximal O2 uptake decreased from 3.98 +/- 0.20 l/min at sea level to 1.17 +/- 0.08 l/min at PIO2 43 Torr. This was associated with profound hypoxemia and hypocapnia; at 60 W of exercise at PIO2 43 Torr, arterial PO2 = 28 +/- 1 Torr and PCO2 = 11 +/- 1 Torr, with a marked reduction in mixed venous PO2 [14.8 +/- 1 (SE) Torr]. Considering the major factors responsible for transfer of O2 from the atmosphere to the tissues, the most important adaptations occurred in ventilation where a fourfold increase in alveolar ventilation was observed. Diffusion from alveolus to end-capillary blood was unchanged with altitude. The mass circulatory transport of O2 to the tissue capillaries was also unaffected by altitude except at PIO2 43 Torr where cardiac output was increased for a given O2 uptake. Diffusion from the capillary to the tissue mitochondria, reflected by mixed venous PO2, was also increased with altitude. With increasing altitude, blood lactate was progressively reduced at maximal exercise, whereas at any absolute and relative submaximal work load, blood lactate was higher. These findings suggest that although glycogenolysis may be accentuated at low work loads, it may not be maximally activated at exhaustion.

High altitude increases pulmonary arterial pressure (PAP), but no measurements have been made in humans above 4,500 m. Eight male athletic volunteers were decompressed in a hypobaric chamber for 40 days to a barometric pressure (PB) of 240 Torr, equivalent to the summit of Mt. Everest. Serial hemodynamic measurements were made at PB 760 (sea level), 347 (6,100 m), and 282/240 Torr (7,620/8,840 m). Resting PAP and pulmonary vascular resistance (PVR) increased from sea level to maximal values at PB 282 Torr from 15 +/- 0.9 to 34 +/- 3.0 mmHg and from 1.2 +/- 0.1 to 4.3 +/- 0.3 mmHg.l-1 X min, respectively. During near maximal exercise PAP increased from 33 +/- 1 mmHg at sea level to 54 +/- 2 mmHg at PB 282 Torr. Right atrial and wedge pressures were not increased with altitude. Acute 100% O2 breathing lowered cardiac output and PAP but not PVR. Systemic arterial pressure and resistance did not rise with altitude but did increase with O2 breathing, indicating systemic control differed from the lung circulation. We concluded that severe chronic hypoxia caused elevated pulmonary resistance not accompanied by right heart failure nor immediately reversed by O2 breathing.

Hypoxia at high altitude could depress cardiac function and decrease exercise capacity. If so, impaired cardiac function should occur with the extreme, chronic hypoxemia of the 40-day simulated climb of Mt. Everest (8,840 m, barometric pressure of 240 Torr, inspiratory O2 pressure of 43 Torr). In the five of eight subjects having resting and exercise measurements at the barometric pressures of 760 Torr (sea level), 347 Torr (6,100 m), 282 Torr (7,620 m), and 240 Torr, heart rate for a given O2 uptake was higher with more severe hypoxia. Slight (6 beats/min) slowing of the heart rate occurred only during exercise at the lowest barometric pressure when arterial blood O2 saturations were less than 50%. O2 breathing reversed hypoxemia but never increased heart rate, suggesting that hypoxic depression of rate, if present, was slight. For a given O2 uptake, cardiac output was maintained. The decrease in stroke volume appeared to reflect decreased ventricular filling (i.e., decreased right atrial and wedge pressures). O2 breathing did not increase stroke volume for a given filling pressure. We concluded that extreme, chronic hypoxemia caused little or no impairment of cardiac rate and pump functions.

In previous gender comparisons of muscle performance, men and women rarely have been closely matched, absolute force has not been equalized, and rates of fatigue and early recovery have not been determined. We compared adductor pollicis muscle performance at a similar absolute force development in healthy men and women (both n=9) matched for adductor pollicis maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) force (132 +/- 5 N for women and 136 +/- 4 N for men, mean +/- SE, P > 0.05). Subjects repeated static contractions at a target force of approximately 50% of MVC force of rested muscle (68 +/- 3 N or 51.9 +/- 1.0% MVC for women and 72 +/- 2 N or 53.0 +/- 2.0% MVC for men, P > 0.05) for 5 s followed by 5 s rest until exhaustion, i. e. inability to maintain the target force for 5 s. MVC force was measured following each minute of exercise, at exhaustion, and after each minute for 3 min of passive recovery. For women compared with men: MVC force fell less after 1 min of exercise (to 93 +/- 1% vs. 80 +/- 3% of MVC force of rested muscle, respectively, P < 0.05); MVC force (N min-1) fell approximately 2-fold slower (P < 0.05); and endurance time to exhaustion was nearly two times longer (14.7 +/- 1. 6 min vs. 7.9 +/- 0.7 min, P < 0.05). After declining to a similar level of MVC force of rested muscle at exhaustion (56 +/- 1% for women and 56 +/- 3% for men), MVC force rose faster in women than in men (to 71 +/- 2% vs. 65 +/- 3% of MVC force of rested muscle, respectively; P < 0.05) during the first minute of recovery. The findings are consistent with the hypothesis that slower adductor pollicis muscle fatigue in women is linked with differences between men and women both in impairment of force generating capacity, per se, and in rates of recovery between contractions.

High-altitude anorexia leads to a hormonal response pattern modulated by both hypoxia and caloric restriction (CR). The purpose of this study was to compare altitude-induced neuroendocrine changes with or without energy imbalance and to explore how energy sufficiency alters the endocrine acclimatization process. Twenty-six normal-weight, young men were studied for 3 wk. One group [hypocaloric group (HYPO), n = 9] stayed at sea level and consumed 40% fewer calories than required to maintain body weight. Two other groups were deployed to 4,300 meters (Pikes Peak, CO), where one group (ADQ, n = 7) was adequately fed to maintain body weight and the other [deficient group (DEF), n = 10] had calories restricted as above. HYPO experienced a typical CR-induced reduction in many hormones such as insulin, testosterone, and leptin. At altitude, fasting glucose, insulin, and epinephrine exhibited a muted rise in DEF compared with ADQ. Free thyroxine, thyroid-stimulating hormone, and norepinephrine showed similar patterns between the two altitude groups. Morning cortisol initially rose higher in DEF than ADQ at 4,300 meters, but the difference disappeared by day 5. Testosterone increased in both altitude groups acutely but declined over time in DEF only. Adiponectin and leptin did not change significantly from sea level baseline values in either altitude group regardless of energy intake. These data suggest that hypoxia tends to increase blood hormone concentrations, but anorexia suppresses elements of the endocrine response. Such suppression results in the preservation of energy stores but may sacrifice the facilitation of oxygen delivery and the use of oxygen-efficient fuels.