The way in which the Boussinesq and Serre models deal with the internal kinematics of waves on mildly sloping beaches is examined. The equation normally used on the depth-averaged horizontal velocity to impose a parabolic profile vertically up through the wave is studied using experimentally and theoretically obtained values. In general, it is found that for near-bed regions the equation provides satisfactory comparisons, however, as one approaches the surface the theoretical values can substantially exceed the experimental ones, particularly in the crest of the wave.
A performance analysis of the LOFT differential pressure (A P) measurement is presented. Along with completed descriptions of test programs and. . and theoretical sutdies that have been conducted on the AP, specific sources of measurement uncertainty are identified, qusntified, and combined t o provide an assessment of the ability of this measurement to satisfy the SDD 1. 4. 1 C (June 1975) requirement of measurement of differential pressure.-COT:? t o p~r z i i t tho braadoPd pei3BabBi0 avagh a b i l i t y , The theoretical framework and general methods employed in this suppl Gment are discussed in LTR 141-39, "LOFT Experimental Measurements Urjcertai nty Analysis".
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