Several processes in textile finishing involve a modification on fabric sensorial and mechanical properties. This paper tries to evaluate the effect of four different washes on the denim fabric tactile properties using a sensory analysis. The studied washes were rinse, stone1, stone2 and stone bleach. The tactile sensory properties of washed denim fabrics were assessed by a trained panel composed of 10 assessors. The 10 panelists were selected from 15 assessors after a training program, during which their performance in terms of repeatability was controlled to decrease the variability of the provided measurements. This trained panel assessed 16 sensory attributes already selected to find out the differences between the washed samples. Analyses of variance and principal components analyses were carried out to define the most pertinent attributes, which allows one to find out the difference between the washed samples. It was found that the change of washed denim fabric handle depends on the washing intensity and it is more important in the case of normal finishing than the fifties finishing. There have been some studies in which the influences of some washing and special treatments on the mechanical and physical properties of denim fabrics were determined. This paper identifies the most important tactile sensory properties that are influenced by industrial washings for the denim fabric. In addition, this paper represents the progressive changes of the handle that occur on treating the denim fabric with various washings.
The notion of hand or touch of the fabric depends on several parameters starting with the raw material ending with the finishing techniques and treatments. Several treatments of finishing, accomplished on fabric have an effect on its handle. The purpose of this study is to estimate the effect of two finishing processes and softening treatment on the Denim fabric handle. The first one is a normal finishing, the second is a fifties finishing. A trained panel assessed the tactile sensory properties of treated denim fabrics. This panel took part in a training program. During this program, the panellists' performance in terms of repeatability was controlled to decrease the variability of the provided measurements. This panel assessed 16 sensory attributes already selected to find out the differences between the treated samples. The results of sensory evaluation were studied using the principal components analysis (PCA) and analysis of variance (ANOVA). According to the results, the change of denim fabric handle is more important in the case of fifties finishing than the normal finishing processes. This study also shows that the effect of softener is more legible in the case of fifties finishing and the low concentration of fabric softener did not influence the handle of denim fabric. This paper identifies the most important tactile sensory properties that are influenced by industrial finishing for the denim fabric. This paper represents as well the handle progressive changes that occur when treating the denim fabric with various finishing.
Journal of the Textile InstituteThe objective of this study is to predict the mechanical behaviour of fabrics in uniaxial tensile using only their technical parameters. To achieve this objective, it was necessary, in first stage, to develop a model which can simulate this fabric mechanical behaviour. A modified form of a rheological model is used to describe the mechanical behaviour of fabrics in uniaxial tension. The proposed analytical model can fairly well replicate the behaviour of fabrics during relaxation and simple traction. In order to characterise the coefficients of this model, simple uniaxial tension and relaxation tests were performed for 29 fabrics in the warp and the weft directions. A retro-propagation algorithm is applied in training the artificial neuronal network, which performs a functional mapping between these mechanical coefficients and the technical parameters of fabric. This allowed us to predict the mechanical behaviour in tension and relaxation of fabrics starting only from their technical parameters. NotationsA : coefficient of non-linear spring (Nm − 2 ) E : is the spring modulus (Nm − 2 ) in the Maxwell element E 1 : is the modulus (Nm − 2 ) of linear spring N : is the viscosity (Nsm − 2 ) of the dashpot in the Maxwell element ε : strain ε ˙: speed of strain (ms − 1) ε r : breaking strain σ : stress (Pa) σ r : breaking stress (Pa) IntroductionThe mechanical behaviour of fabrics is widely described in the literature. Peirce (1937) proposed a geometrical model, which provides a mathematical framework for relating the parameters that describe the geometrical configuration of plain weave fabric with circular yarns.
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