Tekstil endüstrisinin vazgeçilmez hammaddelerinden biri olan pamuk, beyaz rengin ötesinde çeşitli kahve ve yeşil tonlarında da üretilebilen doğal bir elyaftır. Doğal renkli pamuk, sahip olduğu çeşitli özelliklerle tekstil endüstrisi için yenilikçi katma değeri yüksek ürünler geliştirilmesinde önemli bir fırsat sunmaktadır. Çevredostu üretimin büyük önem kazandığı günümüz koşullarında atık yükü oluşturmayan yeni proseslerin ve üretim yöntemlerinin geliştirilmesi büyük önem kazanmıştır. Terbiye prosesleri arasında en fazla atık yükü oluşturan boyama işlemlerini ortadan kaldırmanın ve böylece önemli çevresel avantajlar elde etmenin bir yolu doğal lifin renkli olarak yetiştirilmesidir. Renkli pamuk üretimi her ne kadar uzun yıllar önce başarılmış bir konu olsa da literatür incelendiğinde renkli pamukların fiziksel-teknolojik özellikler açısından beyaz pamuğa göre geride kalıyor olmasının bu liflerin yaygın kullanımı üzerinde önemli bir engel teşkil ettiği anlaşılmaktadır. Bu çalışmada, renkli pamuğun yetiştiriciliği ve türleri hakkında özet bilgi verildikten sonra; liflerin genel özellikleri, avantaj ve dezavantajları ile renkli pamuk konusunda bugüne kadar yapılmış tekstil alanındaki önceki çalışmalara ilişkin literatür özeti sunulmaktadır.
Nylon fibres are commonly used in blends with elastane. One of the problems encountered in the printing of nylon/elastane blend fabrics is the necessity of long steaming times for fixation, which causes an increase in energy consumption. In this study, the possibility of printing polyamide fabrics with 1:2 metal complex dyes for short steaming times was investigated. For this aim, laboratory and sample scale trials were performed to develop a method of chemically modifying fibres so that polyamide fabrics can be printed in short steaming times. Based on the results obtained in both trials, it was noticed that the steaming time for fixation could be reduced from 30 minutes to 15 minutes by printing with 1:2 metal complex dyes without causing a loss of printing yield and without affecting the fastness adversly in case of applying cationisation pretreatment with a modified quaternary polyalkylamine compound based product.
Cotton is a natural fiber which has a tendency to wrinkle due to its perfect absorbancy properties. Nowadays, people prefer to use easycare fabrics, so a lot of research has been done about this issue since the 1940s. In most researches, carboxymethylation and causticization processes are applied to bleached or semi-bleached cotton fabric, yet in this project dyed cotton fabric is used. Factories are applying resin finishing which is expensive, decreases fabric strength, increases stiffness of fabric so handle affected poorly from this application. Formaldehyde-based chemistries were used for increase wrinkle recovery performance of fabrics before, but formaldehyde is a suspicious carcinogenic chemical very dangerous for human health. Currently, DMDHEU and BTCA are the most well-known crosslinking chemical materials in wrinkle-free finishing, but in this study, cationic silicone softener was used as the crosslinker, and its effect on crease resistance was investigated. In the study, after the dyed cotton fabrics were given anionic character by applying causticization with Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) and carboxymethylation processes with Sodium Chloroacetate (SCA), respectively, three different concentrations of cationic silicone were applied with the pad-dry-cure method for the cross-linking process. Then, wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) measurements were performed on crosslinked cotton fabrics in order to understand the interaction between causticization and crosslinking; and determine the better causticization and crosslinking levels that offer highest fabric performance. Experimental results showed that the best WRA results were observed at 10% NaOH, 0.5M SCA. Same SCA and softener concentration with 15% NaOH has adverse effect compared to 5% and 10% NaOH levels.
As it is known, the most widely used dye class for dyeing cotton fabrics is reactive dyes. However, the reactive dyeing process itself and various finishing processes applied after dyeing affects the physical, mechanical, handle, comfort and functional properties of the fabrics. Therefore, the main aim of this study was to determine the dyeing and finishing processes on the quality-performance characteristics of the cotton knitted fabrics. For this aim, physical (weight, wale/course density), mechanical (bursting strength, pilling, abrasion resistance), handle (bending rigidity), comfort (thermal comfort, air permeability, water vapor permeability) and functional (Ultraviolet protective functionality and flame retardancy of the fabrics) properties of fabrics were tested before and after dyeing and finishing processes. Fabric weight and bursting strength values increases after dyeing and finishing processes due to the shrinkage of the fabrics during wet processing. On the other hand, the pilling and abrasion resistance values of fabrics are not significantly affected by dyeing and finishing processes. Another important result obtained is that the bending length and bending stiffness of the fabrics decrease after dyeing/finishing processes. The thickness values of the fabrics decrease after dyeing-finishing processes and therefore the thermal resistance decreases. It was observed that the air permeability of the fabrics significantly decreased after dyeing-finishing processes. However, the water vapor permeability of the fabrics was decreased very slightly after dyeing and finishing processes. UPF ratings were increased after dyeing and finishing processes. Keywords: Cotton, dyeing, color, functionality, permeability
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