This paper presents a spectral wave action model to simulate random wave deformation and transformation. The wave model is based on the wave action balance equation and can simulate wave fields by accounting for wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction and wind effect in coastal waters. It is a finite-difference, phase averaged model for the steady-state wave spectral transformation. The wave model is applied to verify different experimental cases and real life case of considering the several factor effects. The calculated results agree with the experimental and field data. The results show that the wave model presented herein should be useful in simulating the wave transformation processes in complicated coastal waters.
An implicit finite volume scheme is developed to solve the depth-averaged 2-D shallow water flow equations. The computational mesh consists of rectangular cells, with quadtree technology incorporated to locally refine the mesh around structures of interest or where the topography and/or flow properties change sharply. The governing equations are solved using the SIMPLEC algorithm on non-staggered grid to handle the coupling of water level and velocity. The discretized algebraic equations are solved iteratively using the GMRES method. The model has been tested against measurement data for steady flow at T Junction channel, unsteady flow in idealized estuary, tidal flows and pollutant transport in Gironde Estuary. The model reasonably well reproduces the temporal and spatial variations of water level and current speed observed in the measurements.
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