Background: The lipid components and natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) of the stratum corneum (SC) are integral pieces of the self-regulating barrier strategy which comprises one of the most important functions of human skin and seems to be related to biomechanical responses of the SC. Objectives: This work presents the contributions of the lipid bilayers and NMFs to the barrier properties and mechanical responses of human SC. Methods: We performed 2 biomechanical experiments, substrate curvature testing and double cantilever beam cohesion measurements, on isolated human SC exposed to either water, a 1:1 mixture of acetone/ ether, or a 1:1 mixture of chloroform/methanol for various durations. Results: We show that treating ex vivo SC with organic solvents results in lipid extraction which increases with duration of exposure. This extraction is tied to a remarkably linear increase in the levels and rates of biaxial stress development during drying/hydration cycles. This effect appears to be tied to the total amounts of lipids extracted. Furthermore , striking changes are seen in the intercellular cohesion properties of the tissue after solvent exposure. Interestingly, changes in drying stress profiles are not observed after treatment with water, which has been previously shown to remove NMFs from the tissue, and which therefore might be expected to induce changes in the drying behavior of the skin. However, changes in intercellular cohesion and the SC cohesion gradient are seen, suggesting impacts on the corneodesmosome protein binding junctions within the tissue. Conclusions: These results suggest that lipid loss causes marked increases in SC drying stresses, which may in turn contribute to changes in skin perception. NMF extraction may be important in vivo, but has remarkably little impact in isolated SC.
Moisturizing compounds are commonly applied topically to human stratum corneum (SC). Many types of molecular species are employed, most commonly including humectants and occlusives. We find new evidence of keratin dispersion caused by the moisturizing compound ectoine (1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid), and provide the first characterization of its impacts on the hydration kinetics and biomechanics of SC. A second compound, 2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)ethylguanidine succinate (HEG) was investigated for comparison. A suite of biomechanical and biochemical assays including FTIR, drying stress, and cellular cohesion were used. Studies were conducted on normal, lipid-extracted, and lipid plus natural moisturizing factor extracted SC. Ectoine was found to improve the dispersity and hydration of keratin bundles in corneocytes. It also decreased rates of stress development in lipid extracted SC when exposed to a dry environment by ∼30% while improving stress reduction during rehydration by ∼20%. Peak stresses were increased in harsh drying environments of <5% RH, but SC swelling measurements suggest that water retention was improved in ambient conditions. Further, changes up to ∼4 J/m
2
were seen in cohesion after ectoine treatments, suggesting corneodesmosome interactions. HEG was tested and found to disperse keratin without impacting corneodesmosomes. These results indicate that keratin dispersants produce beneficial effects on SC hydration kinetics, ultimately resulting in higher SC hydration under ambient conditions.
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