Sustainability in the textile and clothing industry is seen as a subject of the major producers, with many brands divulging their concern about protecting people and the environment and adopting an environmental friendly communication approach. For companies in the textile and clothing sector (especially SMEs), the circular economy provides an opportunity to create new profit streams, increase their resilience to volatile input costs, and support their efforts to become completely sustainable and socially responsible. EU textile and clothing industry needs a flexible workforce that can respond to the development and to the globalised market and the need for sustainable design and manufacturing in order to respond to the global demand for sustainable creative products. In this frame, it is important to have suitable tools to train the employees, to prepare them to deal with these new challenges, to enhance their knowledge, and to develop new skills and competencies for this new type of business. This paper introduces a new training toolkit, which will contribute to the training process of the personnel involved in the textile and clothing industry. This toolkit contains e-learning courses in six European languages, mainly various sources (books, video) and activities (quizzes and forums), which are uploaded and available on the Udemy platform.
Background: A challenge for designers is to create fashionable and very well-fitting personalised garments (multi-layered) that have a suitable shape (balance and size) and provide the wearer with the desired degree of freedom. In this paper, the authors have developed an ergonomic solution for designing the pattern of a business casual men’s jacket by integrating the dynamic data of the body into the design process. Methodology: The pattern was elaborated by interactive design process based on mathematical relationships and the use of specific input data. The 3D virtual prototype was created in Clo3D (the static and typical dynamic positions of the mannequin). The dynamic data needed for the study were measured directly on 50 male subjects. These values were analysed by using the statistical method and then integrated into the design scenario in a specific way. The shapes of the new 3D prototypes were evaluated by examining the relationships between the constructive and longitudinal allowance along the back region as independent variables and sleeve angle and upper back tension as dependent variables. Results: By allowing a certain degree of dynamic effect in the design process, one can see that the personalized model of the casual business jacket with Ab (constructive allowance) = 4.5 cm and Aars (longitudinal allowance distributed along with the back height) = 3.6 cm is well balanced and fits the body. Conclusions: This design method can be used and further developed for other garment categories and customers by any design department that has the right IT tools to facilitate the personalized design process.
The objective of this study was to develop a new method of designing ergonomically shaped men’s jackets that perfectly adapt to the customer’s body shape and style (i.e. custom made jackets). The study included 10 adult subjects who prefer to wear formal jackets to work. These subjects underwent 3D scans, and the images were used to execute the study objective. The constructive balance values of men’s jacket patterns were determined by considering the characteristics of the subject’s torso and preferred style. The longitudinal contours of the torso were described by parabolic equations, which were solved with the Gauss method. The obtained value of the constructive balance (1.5 ÷ 3 cm) was used to design jackets using a particular module of Gemini CADs, which allows the mathematical relations between the positions of specific points on the contour of a men’s jacket to be expressed. The pieces are designed in Gemini’s geometric layer. The designer can establish the mathematical relations based on his/her pattern-making competencies and human body and garment evaluation results. In a 3D virtual environment (Lectra-Modaris 3D), the customer’s avatars were dressed with the same jacket model but with different bust lines and various widths on the lateral side. The bust line level was established by using the backside length (measured from the seven-vertebra until the armpit level) and an allowance value, which was established after the human body backside curvature, garment silhouette, number of layers, etc. were analysed. Two variants of the jacket model were designed: a regular- and a medium-fit at the bust level (the value of the constructive bust allowance was 7 ÷ 10 cm). The garment position on the body was evaluated by studying its relative displacement when the avatar performed regular movements (moving his upper limbs). Thirteen cases were considered significant and used to analyse the jacket hemline relative displacement (relative to its horizontal position). These cases were analysed with factorial programming and a rotatable compound central programme with two independent variables. The best shape, size and position of the jacket on the virtual body were determined for the following situation: the value of the backside allowance (longitudinal direction) was between 1.6 and 4 cm, and the width of the jacket on the lateral side was calculated with the percentage of the constructive bust allowance ranging from 49% to 51%. With these parameters, the garment appears to fit the body well.
scite is a Brooklyn-based organization that helps researchers better discover and understand research articles through Smart Citations–citations that display the context of the citation and describe whether the article provides supporting or contrasting evidence. scite is used by students and researchers from around the world and is funded in part by the National Science Foundation and the National Institute on Drug Abuse of the National Institutes of Health.
hi@scite.ai
10624 S. Eastern Ave., Ste. A-614
Henderson, NV 89052, USA
Copyright © 2024 scite LLC. All rights reserved.
Made with 💙 for researchers
Part of the Research Solutions Family.