Photographs can give us glimpses of lost worlds. In a picture taken sometime in the last quarter of the nineteenth century, we see pedestrians rushing past each other across the tram tracks on Smyrna's (İzmir) quays, while a great number of ships with flags of various countries and steam rising from their funnels are being loaded and unloaded (Figure 1.1). We see one man wearing a fez with a kerchief wound around it, a very short jacket, a shawl with dangling coins wrapped around his waist, baggy trousers, and boots. He is followed by a man with a similar fez-kerchief combo and boots, but wrapped in a wide, flowing overcoat. They seem about to collide with a man rushing the other way with big steps, wearing a bowler hat, black jacket, needle stripe pants, and city shoes. A man with a similar bowler hat and straight cut overcoat can be seen in the background. If we took only these four pedestrians, we could muse about culture clash. However, we also see a man who, like the first two, wears a fez (albeit with no further adornment), but needle stripe pants like the third, and an overcoat somewhere in between the length and cut of those of the second and third pedestrian described. This slightly older pedestrian also carries a walking stick and wears his beard trimmed at half-length. Next to him, we see yet another man with a fez, but with his beard trimmed short, wearing an elegant tightly tailored light-colored vest and jacket over equally tight-fitting pants. Off to the left, we see the back of yet another man, apparently in military uniform, with a conical fez and half-long coat that is tight at the waist, but widens almost like a dress around his hips. Dressing up in late nineteenthcentury Smyrna, one could surmise, was not a matter of choosing between East and West, city and countryside, or tradition and modernity, but of combining them in a manner that fit to one's personality or worldview. Another picture takes us onto the quays of Salonica (Salonico/Selânik/Thessaloniki/Solun, Figure 1.2). The year is 1917, after the city has