Irregular wave model Nearshore waves Wave heights 20. ABSTRACT (Xrorrtlaue on nv aide tf naceaoary and Identify by block number) An irregular wave technique based on a method developed by Goda (1975) and the SPM method for predicting nearshore wave height are compared with wave gage measurements from the CERC Field Research Facility. The SPM method is a classical monochromatic approach, while the irregular wave technique attempts to represent the actual distribution of ocean waves. These two techniques have certain limitations and ranges of applicability. Comparisons with field data will better define the limits and proper use for these techniques. The performance of the models is evaluated for a variety of wave conditions and water depths. DD ,'
A new era of remote sensing for coastal and oceanographic monitoring was born on 26 June 1978 with the launch of Seasat. Duck-X was a 2 month experiment conducted during August to October 1978 off the east coast of the U.S.A. for the validation of the Seasat synthetic aperture radar (SAR). During this field experiment, various oceanographic phenomena were monitored. Ground truth observations of these phenomena have been correlated with Seasat SAR imagery. The ground truth sensors included airborne photographic and radar imagery, meteorological satellite imagery, land based radars, and conventional wave gauges. This paper focuses on oceansurfacewaves, oceancurrents and coastal inletdischarge.Specifically, the direction and length of the principal ocean wave trains are compared for the periods of Seasat overflight of the Duck-X area. During these overflights significant wave heights were I·5 m and less and the maximum wave period was 14 s. The current correlationsconcentrate on the westernboundary of the Gulf Stream and its associated eddy structure. Inlet outflow is shown for inlets on the east coast of the U.S.A.This ground truth study has indicated that the SAR imagery contains an unanticipated abundance of information on a variety of oceanographicand coastal phenomena.
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