As sustainability is becoming an important topic for both agriculture and the textile sector, there is an increasing market demand for plant-based fibers production. Diversified farming systems, such as agroforestry, have received considerable attention for their potential to contribute to more environmentally sustainable and socially just agricultural methods, that offers a smart use of water and soil nutrition. They can be a direction for rural development through contributions in agrobiodiversity, livelihood diversity, labor availability and economic growth. They are currently being promoted in many regions to contribute for food security, climate change adaptation and mitigation. In this study, the research methodology was based on a systematic literature review and secondary data collection and analyses. The aim was to investigate initiatives towards sustainable textile fibers cropping, including different species and plantation methods. The results indicate few cases worldwide and suggest cotton as the main experimented specie, generally cultivated with two other ones. They were identify three methods applied in cotton crops: (1) crop rotation, (2) agroecological intercropping and (3) agroforestry. Results also demonstrates different production challenges, concerning machinery development to mixture crops, ideal species groups, economic viability and process scalability. Forest management methods that can sustain good mixes of tree species need to be designed, promoting rich agrobiodiversity landscapes. Thus, defining, measuring and rewarding good farming practices are the main possible drivers to motivate farmers to change to new approaches towards sustainability in textile fiber production. Further investigation is demanded to evaluate different species possibilities and cropping maintenance, as well as addressing public policies and coordinating stakeholders interests.
The textile industry is considered a major polluter of the environment using chemical substances such as color fixatives and the production of toxic waste. There is a growing demand in the fashion market for products that are less aggressive to the environment and use of environmentally friendly processes. Considering the use of natural dyes as an alternative to synthetic dyes, and the use of natural mordants as alternatives to metal mordants, this study investigated the use of Acacia mearnsii sawdust as a biomordant for color fixation. Dyeing and color fixing tests were carried out on banana fiber, and the natural dyes of Hibiscus sabdariffa, Allium cepa and Curcuma longa. The results show the efficacy of Acacia as a biomordant for the tested dyes, presenting intense color and fiber softness. Thus, it is intended to contribute with new alternatives to natural dyeing through materials and sustainable processing procedures applied to natural fibers.
Footwear material is of great importance mainly considering the user's health. There are many components in contact with upper and mainly lower part of foot, being the sole essential part to weight distribution, muscle activity and vertebral column. This study aimed to verify how the natural fibers are applied at Brazilian market footwear, demonstrating the types of raw materials utilized, textile constructions and other variables. As well as comparing the information at natural fibers applications data from economics sources and material employment at the footwear international market. The methodology was based in literature research and interviews with Brazilian companies. The employment of natural fibers in footwear corresponds to a small part in comparison of synthetic fibers. Cellulosic fibers have been researched to reinforce rubbers and they are applied to sole as snow footwear. In addition, these fibers are being researched as biodegradable materials, showing innovations for instance, the use of leather waste, coconut fiber and latex, multilayers fabrics and finishing process adding bactericide properties to cotton. Brazilian footwear industry is finding solutions to reduce production costs in order to compete in the international market. One of the strategies is the gradual replacement of leather by fabrics, synthetic polymers and rubbers. The interviews identified the employment of cotton, raffia and jute fabrics especially in footwear summer collections. Thus, the increasing of researches about recycling footwear components and the development of biodegradable materials points a sustainability trend in this sector.
Resumo: O objetivo deste trabalho é analisar a compreensão e presença do conceito de espiritualidade no contexto organizacional. Para isso buscou-se: (a) veri car o entendimento de gestores e colaboradores das organizações estudadas sobre este conceito; (b) investigar a presença ou não de práticas associadas às dimensões da espiritualidade; (c) compreender o papel do líder neste contexto. Efetuou-se uma pesquisa exploratória e descritiva, qualitativa e pesquisa de campo. A coleta de dados ocorreu através de entrevistas semiestruturadas em três empresas da região metropolitana de Porto Alegre (RS): uma da área da educação, nomeada de Empresa S; uma loja de departamentos, denominada de Empresa C; e uma fábrica de calçados femininos, chamada de Empresa I. Os principais resultados demonstram que gestores e colaboradores destas empresas possuem entendimento de espiritualidade baseados no senso comum, e poucos possuem conhecimento a respeito da espiritualidade aplicada à gestão; é possível identi car nas empresas práticas que podem ser consideradas e classi cadas dentro das cinco dimensões da espiritualidade.Abstract: e objective of this work is to analise the understanding and presence of the concept of spirituality in the organizational context. For that, we sought to: (a) verify the understanding of managers and collaborators of the studied organizations about this concept; (b) to investigate the presence or not of spirituality dimensions pratices; (c) understand the leader role in this context. An exploratory and descriptive, qualitative research was made. Data collection was made trough semi-structured interviews in three companies in the metropolitan region of Porto Alegre (RS): one in the education eld, named Company S; a department store, called Company C; and a women's shoe factory, called Company I. Main results show that managers and employees of these companies have an understanding of spirituality based in common sense, and a few have knowledge about spirituality applied to managment; it's possible to indentify in the companies pratices that can be considered and classi ed within the ve spirituality dimensios.
A banana está presente em 129 países ao redor do mundo. O Brasil é o 5º maior produtor mundial e o estado de São Paulo, na região do Vale do Ribeira, o maior produtor nacional. O pseudocaule cortado, caso não tenha uma destinação, é descartado no solo, constituindo um agente poluidor. Uma alternativa seria a aproveitabilidade deste para a obtenção de fibras têxteis. Em Miracatu e Eldorado (cidade do Vale do Ribeira), diversos grupos de artesãs fazem a coleta, beneficiamento e utilizam as fibras da bananeira para a confecção artesanal de têxteis em teares manuais e técnicas diversas de trançados. Este estudo teve como objetivo relatar o processo de extração e beneficiamento da fibra de bananeira pela comunidade Ribeirinha do Quilombo de Ivaporunduva (Vale do Ribeira -SP). Também foram realizados ensaios de branqueamento e tingimento, e determinação das características físico-químicas da fibra de bananeira (cultivar prata AAB) (ensaios tênseis, MEV, DSC, TGA, FTIR, análise de cor e brancura, e DRX). Esses resultados foram comparados com os de fibras de reconhecida empregabilidade têxtil e foram feitas sugestões de uso com foco em aplicações técnicas e design. Os principais valores encontrados da caracterização das fibras de bananeira foram: Celulose -
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