The black we wear: Why nature selected 5,6‐dihydroxyindole‐2‐carboxylic acid (DHICA) to synthesize (photo)protective eumelanin pigments is an enigma. Synthetic DHICA eumelanin has now been shown to be a highly efficient free‐radical scavenger in the solid state, which is due to a conformationally interrupted π‐electron network associated with atypical optical, paramagnetic, and aggregation properties.

A fundamental unsettled issue concerning eumelanins, the functional biopolymers of human skin and hair, is why they are black. The experimental difficulty lies in the virtual insolubility of these pigments, causing marked scattering effects and hindering characterization of the intrinsic absorption properties of the heterogeneous species produced by oxidative polymerization of 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI) and related monomer precursors. The synthesis of spectrally robust, water-soluble DHI polymers is therefore an important goal in the prospects of disentangling intrinsic absorption properties of eumelanin components by circumventing scattering effects. Reported herein is the first water-soluble DHI polymer produced by oxidation of ad hoc designed 5,6-dihydroxy-3-indolyl-1-thio-beta-D-galactopyranoside (1). The dark brown polymer exhibited a distinct band at 314 nm and a broad visible absorption, resembling that of natural eumelanins. Main isolable oligomer intermediates including 2,7'- and 2,4'-biindolyls 2 and 3, attest the close resemblance to the mode of coupling of the parent DHI. Sodium borohydride reduction caused decoloration and a marked absorbance decrease in the visible region around 550 nm, but did not affect the UV band at 314 nm. Measurements of absorbance variations with dilution indicated a linear response at 314 nm, but a significant deviation from linearity in the visible region, with the largest decrease around 500 nm. It is argued that eumelanin black color is not only intrinsically defined by the overlap of pi-electron conjugated chromophores within the individual polymer components, as commonly believed, but also by oxidation state- and aggregation-dependent interchromophoric interactions causing perturbations of the heterogeneous ensemble of pi-electron systems and overall spectral broadening.

Summary The complex interplay of genetic and epigenetic factors linking sun exposure to melanoma in the red hair phenotype hinges on the peculiar physical and chemical properties of pheomelanins and the underlying biosynthetic pathway, which is switched on by the effects of inactivating polymorphisms in the melanocortin 1 receptor gene. In addition to the long recognized UV‐dependent pathways of toxicity and cell damage, a UV‐independent pro‐oxidant state induced by pheomelanin within the genetically determined background of the red hair phenotype has recently been disclosed. This review provides a detailed discussion of the possible UV‐dependent and UV‐independent chemical mechanisms underlying pheomelanin‐mediated oxidative stress, with special reference to the oxygen‐dependent depletion of glutathione and other cell antioxidants. The new concept of pheomelanin as a ‘living’ polymer and biocatalyst that may grow by exposure to monomer building blocks and may trigger autooxidative processes is also discussed. As a corollary, treatment of inflammatory skin diseases in RHP patients is briefly commented. Finally, possible concerted strategies for melanoma prevention in the red hair phenotype are proposed.

Phenolic compounds are broadly represented in plant kingdom, and their occurrence in easily accessible low-cost sources like wastes from agri-food processing have led in the last decade to an increase of interest in their recovery and further exploitation. Indeed, most of these compounds are endowed with beneficial properties to human health (e.g., in the prevention of cancer and cardiovascular diseases), that may be largely ascribed to their potent antioxidant and scavenging activity against reactive oxygen species generated in settings of oxidative stress and responsible for the onset of several inflammatory and degenerative diseases. Apart from their use as food supplements or as additives in functional foods, natural phenolic compounds have become increasingly attractive also from a technological point of view, due to their possible exploitation in materials science. Several extraction methodologies have been reported for the recovery of phenolic compounds from agri-food wastes mostly based on the use of organic solvents such as methanol, ethanol, or acetone. However, there is an increasing need for green and sustainable approaches leading to phenolic-rich extracts with low environmental impact. This review addresses the most promising and innovative methodologies for the recovery of functional phenolic compounds from waste materials that have appeared in the recent literature. In particular, extraction procedures based on the use of green technologies (supercritical fluid, microwaves, ultrasounds) as well as of green solvents such as deep eutectic solvents (DES) are surveyed.

Recent advances in the chemistry of melanins have begun to disclose a number of important structure-property-function relationships of crucial relevance to the biological role of human pigments, including skin (photo) protection and UV-susceptibility. Even slight variations in the monomer composition of black eumelanins and red pheomelanins have been shown to determine significant differences in light absorption, antioxidant, paramagnetic and redox behavior, particle morphology, surface properties, metal chelation and resistance to photo-oxidative wear-and-tear. These variations are primarily governed by the extent of decarboxylation at critical branching points of the eumelanin and pheomelanin pathways, namely the rearrangement of dopachrome to 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI) and 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA), and the rearrangement of 5-S-cysteinyldopa o-quinoneimine to 1,4-benzothiazine (BTZ) and its 3-carboxylic acid (BTZCA). In eumelanins, the DHICA-to-DHI ratio markedly affects the overall antioxidant and paramagnetic properties of the resulting pigments. In particular, a higher content in DHICA decreases visible light absorption and paramagnetic response relative to DHI-based melanins, but markedly enhances antioxidant properties. In pheomelanins, likewise, BTZCA-related units, prevalently formed in the presence of zinc ions, appear to confer pronounced visible and ultraviolet A (UVA) absorption features, accounting for light-dependent reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, whereas non-carboxylated benzothiazine intermediates seem to be more effective in inducing ROS production by redox cycling mechanisms in the dark. The possible biological and functional significance of carboxyl retention in the eumelanin and pheomelanin pathways is discussed.