Quercus suber L. bark (cork) is a sustainable material due to its ability to regenerate. The aim of this work was to explore cork powders, by-products of the cork industry, as sustainable sources of value-added compounds. Two types of cork powder were studied: coarse (P0) and fine (P1). A broad physicochemical characterization was carried out, regarding particle size, color, moisture content, hygroscopicity, pH, heavy metal content, NIR spectra, and volatile compounds. DPPH scavenging activity and total phenolic content were also evaluated for an ethanolic P1 extract. For both powders, Hg, As, Cd and Pb contents were below the acceptable limits and volatile compounds commonly used as fragrances were found in their composition. P1 had a smaller and more homogenous particle size, lighter brownish color, lower pH value, and lower moisture content than P0, and therefore appears to be more suitable for industrial application. P1 ethanolic extract also showed a high scavenging activity and a content of phenolic compounds of 50.46 ± 0.63 mg (as gallic acid equivalents) per g of extract. In conclusion, P1 cork powder seems to be a promising source of upcycled ingredients, such as fragrances and antioxidants, for the pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, and cosmetic industries.
Skin repair encompasses epidermal barrier repair and wound healing which involves multiple cellular and molecular stages. Therefore, many skin repair strategies have been proposed. In order to characterize the usage frequency of skin repair ingredients in cosmetics, medicines, and medical devices, commercialized in Portuguese pharmacies and parapharmacies, a comprehensive analysis of the products’ composition was performed. A total of 120 cosmetic products, collected from national pharmacies online platforms, 21 topical medicines, and 46 medical devices, collected from INFARMED database, were included in the study, revealing the top 10 most used skin repair ingredients in these categories. A critical review regarding the effectiveness of the top ingredients was performed and an in-depth analysis focused on the top three skin repair ingredients pursued. Results demonstrated that top three most used cosmetic ingredients were metal salts and oxides (78.3%), vitamin E and its derivatives (54.2%), and Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. extract and actives (35.8%). Regarding medicines, metal salts and oxides were also the most used (47.4%) followed by vitamin B5 and derivatives (23.8%), and vitamin A and derivatives (26.3%). Silicones and derivatives were the most common skin repair ingredients in medical devices (33%), followed by petrolatum and derivatives (22%) and alginate (15%). This work provides an overview of the most used skin repair ingredients, highlighting their different mechanisms of action, aiming to provide an up-to-date tool to support health professionals’ decisions.
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