Helichrysum italicum is a plant traditionally used for skin-related disorders that is becoming an increasingly popular ingredient in cosmetic products. In this work, a “green” ultrasound-assisted extraction method for H. italicum phenolics was developed using skin-friendly cyclodextrins (CDs). Extraction conditions needed for the greatest yield of target compounds (total phenolics, phenolic acids, and flavonoids) were calculated. The composition of the extracts was determined using LC-MS and spectrophotometric methods. Among the tested CDs, 2-hydroxylpropyl-beta-CD (HP-β-CD) was the best suited for extraction of target phenolics and used to prepare two optimized extracts, OPT 1 (the extract with the highest phenolic acid content) and OPT 2 (the extract with the highest total phenol and flavonoid content). The extracts were prepared at 80 °C, using 0.089 g of plant material/g solvent (0.6 mmol of HP-β-CD), with or without addition of 1.95% (w/w) lactic acid. The main metabolite in both extracts was 3,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid. It was found that the addition of lactic acid greatly contributes to the extraction of arzanol, a well-known anti-inflammatory agent. IC50 values of the anti-elastase (22.360 ± 0.125 μL extract/mL and 20.067 ± 0.975 for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) and anti-collagenase (12.035 ± 1.029 μL extract/mL and 14.392 ± 0.705 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) activities of the extracts surpassed those of the applied positive controls, namely ursolic and gallic acids. This activity deems the prepared extracts promising ingredients for natural cosmetics, appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products, removing the need for the evaporation of conventional solvents.
The three investigated timing regimens of LT4 administration were equally efficient and offer additional options regarding the treatment individualization.
Medicago lupulina is an ancient edible plant from the Fabaceae family. In this work, two eco-friendly methods for extraction of bioactive phenolics from M. lupulina were developed using mixtures of water with two non-toxic, skin- and environmentally-friendly polyol solvents: glycerol and polypropylene glycol. Ultrasound-assisted extractions were optimized using a Box–Behnken design. The independent variables were the concentration of organic solvent in water (X1), extraction temperature (X2) and time (X3), while the response was phenolic content. The optimum conditions for extraction of polyphenols were (X1, X2, X3): (45%, 70 °C, 60 min) and (10%, 80 °C, 60 min) for glycerol and polypropylene glycol extraction, respectively. The extracts prepared at optimum conditions were rich in phenolic compounds, mainly derivatives of apigenin, kaempferol, luteolin, quercetin, caffeic and ferulic acid, as well as coumestrol. Their cosmeceutical and antidiabetic activity was tested. Both extracts demonstrated notable antioxidant, anti-lipoxygenase and anti-α-amylase activity. In addition to those activities, the glycerol extract efficiently inhibited protein coagulation, elastase and α-glucosidase activity. Glycerol present in the extract displayed enzyme-inhibiting activity in several assays and supported the action of the bioactive constituents. Thus, the optimized glycerol extract is a desirable candidate for direct incorporation in antidiabetic food supplements and cosmeceutical products.
Olive leaf is a rich source of phenolic compounds with numerous activities related to skin health and appearance. In this study, a green extraction method was developed using eco-friendly solvents: polypropylene glycol (PPG), lactic acid (LA), and water. The optimal extraction conditions were established, including solvent, extraction time, technique (magnetic stirrer vs. ultrasound-assisted extraction), and herbal material/solvent ratio. The composition of the solvent mixture was optimized using a mixture design. The content of phenolic compounds, including oleuropein and verbascoside, was determined using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and spectrophotometric methods. Using different extraction conditions, three extracts were prepared and their phytochemical compositions and antioxidant and skin-related bioactivities were investigated. The extracts were excellent inhibitors of elastase, collagenase, tyrosinase, and lipoxygenase. The best activity was shown by the extract richest in phenolics and prepared using magnetic-stirrer-assisted extraction for 20 min, with 0.8 g of herbal material extracted in 10 mL of PPG/LA/water mixture (28.6/63.6/7.8, w/w/w), closely followed by the extract prepared using the same extraction conditions but with 0.42 g of herbal material. The investigated PPG/LA/water mixtures contributed to the overall enzyme-inhibitory activity of the extracts. The prepared extracts were appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products, thus saving the time and energy consumption necessary for the evaporation of conventional solvents.
The research on the possibilities of using biowaste from urban green areas is scarce. In this work, four plants, widely distributed in urban parks in Central Europe (Lotus corniculatus, Medicago lupulina, Knautia arvensis and Plantago major) were extracted using eco-friendly solvents based either on aqueous cyclodextrin solutions (hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin or γ-cyclodextrin) or natural deep eutectic solvents based on glycerol, betaine and glucose. Metal content was determined using total reflection X-ray fluorescence (TXRF). The content of selected metabolites was determined using UV-VIS spectrophotometric methods and HPLC. Skin-related bioactivity was assessed using tyrosinase and elastase inhibition assays. The selected plants contained metals beneficial for skin health, such as zinc and calcium, while having a low content of toxic heavy metals. The extracts contained the bioactive phenolics such as quercetin, kaempferol, luteolin and apigenin. L. corniculatus was the most potent tyrosinase inhibitor, while K. arvensis showed the most pronounced elastase inhibitory activity. The employed solvents actively contributed to the observed bioactivity. The results indicate that the biowaste obtained from urban parks represents an ecologically acceptable alternative to conventional cultivation for the preparation of ecologically acceptable, high-value cosmetic products.
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