[1] Field observations of water temperature on the Australian North-West Shelf (Eastern Indian Ocean) with the support of numerical simulations are used to demonstrate that the injection of turbulence generated by the wave orbital motion substantially contributes to the mixing of the upper ocean. Measurements also show that a considerable deepening of the mixed layer occurs during tropical cyclones, when the production of wave-induced turbulent kinetic energy overcomes the contribution of the current-generated shear turbulence. Despite a significant contribution to the deepening of the mixed layer, the effect of a background current and atmospheric forcing are not on their own capable of justifying the observed deepening of the mixed layer through most of the water column. Furthermore, variations of a normally shallow mixed layer depth are observed within a relatively short timescale of approximately 10 hours after the intensification of wave activity and vanish soon after the decay of storm surface waves. This rapid development tends also to exclude any significant contribution by wave breaking, as small rates of vertical diffusivity for wave breaking-induced turbulence would require longer timescales to influence the depth of the mixed layer.
[1] The coupling between the atmospheric boundary layer and the ocean surface in large-scale models is usually parameterized in terms of the sea drag coefficient, which is routinely estimated as a function of mean wind speed. The scatter of data around such parametric dependencies, however, is very significant and imposes a serious limitation on the forecasts and predictions that make use of sea surface drag parameterizations. The analysis of an atmospheric and wave data set collected in finite water depth at the Lake George measurement site (Australia) suggests that this variability relates to a number of parameters at the air-sea interface other than wind speed alone. In particular, results indicate that the sea drag depends on water depth and wave steepness, which make the wave profile more vertically asymmetric, and the concentration of water vapor in the air, which modifies air density and friction velocity. These dependencies are used to derive parametric functions based on the combined contribution of wind, waves and relative humidity. A standard statistical analysis confirms a substantial improvement in the prediction of the drag coefficient and sea surface roughness when additional parameters are taken into account.Citation: Toffoli, A., L. Loffredo, P. Le Roy, J.-M. Lefèvre, and A. V. Babanin (2012), On the variability of sea drag in finite water depth,
Nettuno is a wind and wave forecast system for the Mediterranean Sea. It has been operational since 2009 producing twice-daily high-resolution forecasts for the next 72 h. The authors have carried out a detailed analysis of the results, both in space and time, using scatterometer and altimeter data from four different satellites. The findings suggest that there are appreciable differences in the measurements from the different instruments. Within the overall positive results, there is also evidence of differences in Nettuno performance for the various subbasins. The related geographical distributions in Nettuno performance are consistent with the various satellite instruments used in the comparisons. The extensive system of buoys around Italy is used to highlight the difficulties involved in a correct modeling of wave heights in Italy's coastal areas.
This paper presents results of the assessment of the design parameters leading to the definition of the crest level of a coastal dike along the German North Sea. Procedures to estimate the design water level have been proposed, distinguishing between comparative and single value procedures. The transformation of the wave characteristics from deep water towards the shallow foreshore was achieved through the application of a spectral wave model. To improve the wave parameter estimations, the existing model was nested to a grid with a higher resolution closer to the coast. The estimation of the wave run-up followed the Dutch procedure with some adjustments to the local wave characteristics and dike geometry. The computed maximum crest level of 8.4 m is below the crest height of the existing dike, which is 8.8 m. However a proposal for a more economical design should be carefully evaluated, paying attention to the uncertainties encountered in this research. The general recommendation is to enhance the reliability of the hindcasted wave parameters through calibration and validation of the wave model and to include in the design process an investigation of the effect of the medium term morphological developments.
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