Video monitoring systems (VMS) have been used for beach status observation but are not effective for examining detailed beach processes as they only measure changes to the shoreline and backshore. Here, we extracted longshore sediment transport (LST) from VMS in order to investigate long- and short-term littoral processes on a pocket beach. LST estimated by applying one-line theory, wave power, and the oblique angle of incident waves were used to understand shoreline changes caused by severe winter storms. The estimated LST showed good agreement with the shoreline changes because the sediments were trapped at one end of the pocket beach and the alongshore direction of transported sediments was corresponded to the direction of LST. The results also showed that the beach that was severely eroded during storms was also rapidly recovered following the evolution of LST, which indicates that the LST may play a role in the recovery process while the erosion was mainly caused by the cross-shore transport due to storm waves. After the beach was nourished, beach changes became more active, even under lower wave energy conditions, owing to the equilibrium process. The analysis presented in this study could be applied to study inhomogeneous beach processes at other sites.
The effect of a detached breakwater, which was constructed to improve harbor tranquility inside Pohang New Port, was examined through the comparison of wave data measured before and after the construction of the breakwater. The observation data showed that the wave energy was effectively reduced by the breakwater, although the wave height measured outside the breakwater was higher after its construction. The wave energy was reduced in all of the measured wave-propagating directions, but it was also observed that the breakwater became less effective in protecting against northeastwaves than in protecting against NNE waves. The BOUSS-2D Boussinesq-type wave model was employed to analyze the pattern of wave propagation, showing that, before the breakwater’s construction, NE waves could directly enter the port, increasing the wave energy inside the port. After the breakwater’s construction, simulations showed that the detached breakwater effectively blocked the waves approaching the port from both the NNE and NE directions, although the wave heights of the waves from the extreme NE direction inside the port increased. Considering that the estimated probability of failing to preserve the port tranquility was only 0.2–0.5% for these extreme NE waves, it was concluded that no secondary structures were necessary, and the existing breakwater was sufficient for the protection of the port.
Numerical simulations of the storm surge and waves induced by the Typhoon Maemi incident on the south sea of Korea in 2003 are performed using the JMA-MSM forecast weather field, NCEP-CFSR reanalysis weather field, ECMWF-ERA5 reanalysis weather field, and the pressure and wind fields obtained using the best track information provided by JTWC. The calculated surge heights are compared with the time history observed at harbours along the coasts of Korea. For the waves occurring coincidentally with the storm surges the calculated significant wave heights are compared with the measured data. Based on the comparison of surge and wave heights the assessment of the reliability of various weather fields is performed. As a result the JMA-MSM weather fields gives the highest reliability, and the weather field obtained using JTWC best track information gives also relatively good agreement. The ECMWF-ERA5 gives in general surge and wave heights weaker than the measured. The reliability of NCEP-CFSR turns out to be the worst for this special case of Typhoon Maemi. Based on the results of this study it is found that the reliable weather fields are essential for the accurate simulation of storm surges and waves.
Numerical simulations of the storm surge and waves induced by the Typhoon Bolaven incident on the west sea of Korea in 2012 are performed using the JMA-MSM weather field provided by the Japan Meteorological Agency, and the calculated surge heights are compared with the time history observed at harbours along the various coasts of Korea. For the waves occurring coincidentally with the storm surges the calculated significant wave heights are compared with the data measured using the wave buoys operated by the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency and the Korea Meteorological Administration. Additional simulations are also performed based on the pressure and wind fields obtained using the best track information provided by the Joint Typhoon Warning Center, and the calculated results are compared and analyzed. The waves and storm surges calculated using JMA-MSM wether field agree well with the observations because of the better reflection of the topography and the pre-background weather field. On the other hand, the calculated results based on the weather fields produced using the JTWC best track information show some limitations of the general trend of the variations of wave and surge heights. Based on the results of this study it is found that the reliable weather fields are essential for the accurate simulation of storm surges and waves.
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