Phytochemical profiling of a MeOH extract from Haberlea rhodopensis by a combination of liquid/liquid extraction, and preparative and semi‐preparative HPLC afforded three new flavone C‐glycosides, hispidulin‐8‐C‐(2″‐O‐syringoyl)‐β‐glucopyranoside (3), hispidulin 8‐C‐(6‐O‐acetyl‐β‐glucopyranoside) (4), and hispidulin 8‐C‐(6‐O‐acetyl‐2‐O‐syringoyl‐β‐glucopyranoside) (5), along with two known phenolic glycosides, myconoside (1) and paucifloside (2). The structures were established by extensive spectroscopic analyses including 1D‐ and 2D‐NMR (COSY, HSQC, and HMBC), and HR‐ESI‐TOF‐MS, and by comparison with published data.

Background3,4,5-Trihydroxybenzoic acid glucoside (THBG), a molecule produced by an original biocatalysis-based technology, was assessed in this study with respect to its skin photoprotective capacity and its skin color control property on Asian-type skin at a clinical level and on skin explant culture models.MethodsThe double-blinded clinical study was done in comparison to a vehicle by the determination of objective color parameters thanks to recognized quantitative and qualitative analysis tools, including Chroma-Meter, VISIA-CR™, and SIAscope™. Determination of L* (brightness), a* and b* (green–red and blue–yellow chromaticity coordinates), individual typology angle, and C* (chroma) and h* (hue angle) parameters using a Chroma-Meter demonstrated that THBG is able to modify skin color while quantification of ultraviolet (UV) spots by VISIA-CR™ confirmed its photoprotective effect. The mechanism of action of THBG molecule was determined using explant skin culture model coupled to histological analysis (epidermis melanin content staining).ResultsWe have demonstrated that THBG was able to modulate significantly several critical parameters involved in skin color control such as L* (brightness), a* (redness), individual typology angle (pigmentation), and hue angle (yellowness in this study), whereas no modification occurs on b* and C* parameters. We have demonstrated using histological staining that THBG decrease epidermis melanin content under unirradiated and irradiated condition. We also confirmed that THBG molecule is not a sunscreen agent.ConclusionThis study demonstrated that THBG controls skin tone via the inhibition of melanin synthesis as well as the modulation of skin brightness, yellowness, and redness.

Resurrection plant Haberlea rhodopensis develops molecules to survive drought stress. These molecules allow the plant to resurge from a desiccation state. We have extracted a specific fraction from the plant (Haberlea extract) and found it rich, among other molecules, of a caffeoyl phenylethanoid glycoside called myconoside, a molecule extremely abundant in the plant with a potential role in survival. Peroxide-stressed normal human dermal fibroblasts treated with the Haberlea extract, showed increased collagen VI (+822%), collagen XVI (+928%) and elastin (+144%) mRNA synthesis, measured by RT-qPCR. This effect was superior to those obtained with benchmarks retinoic acid and retinol. When used at 3% in human skin biopsies, Haberlea extract protected against UV-induced dermis oxidation by 100% (P < 0.01), as evidenced by immunohistochemistry. Finally, when tested in human volunteers (n = 20) at 3% in a cream against a placebo, Haberlea extract increased skin elasticity (3× placebo, P < 0.0002) and skin radiance (4× placebo, P < 0.05) after only 15 days of treatment, with the effect sustained after 30 and 60 days of treatment. We demonstrated that by using Haberlea extract (particularly rich in glycoside myconoside), it is possible to strongly stimulate antioxidant skin defences and extracellular matrix protein synthesis. This effect, in turn, will further stimulate skin elasticity and skin radiance significantly in human volunteers. The extract can be suggested for anti-ageing treatments, intended for claims such as protection from oxidation, increased skin elasticity and enhanced skin radiance.

In this research, we have demonstrated in vitro (on inflamed reconstructed human epidermis, RHE) and in vivo (on human aged volunteers) that activation by natural agonist peptide of opioid receptor delta reduces the skin inflammation thus leading to improvement in epidermis differentiation and skin barrier properties.

BackgroundRosacea, a common chronic skin disorder, is currently managed by patient education, pharmacological drugs, medical devices (laser and light therapies), and use of proper skin cares. Unfortunately, none of these actual treatments used alone or in combination is curative, and so we proposed a dermocosmetic active ingredient to mitigate some aspects of the rosacea and particularly for erythematotelangiectatic rosacea.MethodsDermocosmetic active ingredient is composed of three glucosylated derivatives of natural plants hydroxybenzoic acid and hydroxycinnamic acids (rosmarinic acid, gallic acid, and caffeic acid). Anti-inflammatory, anti-angiogenesis, and anti-degranulation studies were done on cellular models (keratinocytes, mast cells, and endothelial cells). Efficiency of the active ingredient in comparison to placebo was assessed clinically on human volunteers having erythematotelangiectatic rosacea. The active and placebo were applied topically twice a day for 28 days. Biometrical analyses were done using a siascope tool.ResultsWe found that the active ingredient decreases inflammation (inhibition of interleukin-8 and tumor necrosis factor release), decreases degranulation of mast cells (inhibition of histamine release), and controls angiogenesis mechanism (inhibition of the production of vascular endothelial growth factor and neovessel formation) on cellular models. Study on human volunteers confirmed macroscopically the efficiency of this active ingredient, as we observed no neovessel formation and less visible vessels.ConclusionAlthough rosacea is a skin condition disorder that is difficult to heal, the studies have shown that this active ingredient could be a dermocosmetic support, especially for erythematotelangiectatic rosacea armamentarium. The active ingredient was topically applied on the face for 28 days and improved erythematotelangiectatic rosacea symptoms either by decreasing them (vessels are less visible) or by limiting their development (any neovessels). The active ingredient decreases inflammation (inhibition of interleukin-8 and tumor necrosis factor release), decreases degranulation of mast cells (inhibition of histamine release), and limits the angiogenesis process (inhibition of vascular endothelial growth factor production and neovessel formation).