Background/aims: The confocal laser scanning microscope Vivascope (Lucid, Henrietta) allows skin to be studied in real‐time with a resolution of 0.5 µm horizontal and 1.3 µm vertical in vivo. In this study, we present the results of a comparison between the skin of an older and a younger group of volunteers by in vivo histometric measurements. Methods: To investigate changes caused by age, 13 young (18–25 years) and 13 older (> 65 years) volunteers were examined. The following parameters were measured using the Vivascope at the volar forearm: minimal thickness of the epidermis (Emin), size of cells in the granular layer (Agran), thickness of the horny layer (DSC), thickness of the basal layer (DSB) and number of dermal papillae per area (PapI). The image analysis program image tool was used to measure the size of the cells and the thickness of the basal layer. Results: The older group of volunteers showed a significant increase in Emin, no significant change in DSC, a significant decrease in dermal papillae and in the thickness of the basal layer, and an increase in Agran compared to the younger group. Conclusions: Histometric measurements by in vivo confocal laser scanning microscopy are a sensitive and non‐invasive tool for characterizing and quantifying histological changes of the epidermis and papillary dermis due to ageing.

BCC can be investigated by CLSM and provide typical features. Besides the tumor parenchym and stroma, typical changes in vasculature seem to be a sensitive criteria for BCC and may in future help in diagnosing BCC by CLSM as well as in assessing the margins of large tumors. We suggest that CLSM is a promising non-invasive tool for the diagnostics of BCC and the assessment of tumor margins prior to surgery.

Biochemical and structural changes of the dermal connective tissue substantially contribute to the phenotype of aging skin. To study connective tissue metabolism with respect to ultraviolet (UV) exposure, we performed an in vitro (human dermal fibroblasts) and an in vivo complementary DNA array study in combination with protein analysis in young and old volunteers. Several genes of the collagen metabolism such as Collagen I, III and VI as well as heat shock protein 47 and matrix metalloproteinase-1 are expressed differentially, indicating UV-mediated effects on collagen expression, processing and degradation. In particular, Collagen I is time and age dependently reduced after a single UV exposure in human skin in vivo. Moreover, older subjects display a lower baseline level and a shorter UV-mediated increase in hyaluronan (HA) levels. To counteract these age-dependent changes, cultured fibroblasts were treated with a specific soy extract. This treatment resulted in increased collagen and HA synthesis. In a placebo-controlled in vivo study, topical application of an isoflavone-containing emulsion significantly enhanced the number of dermal papillae per area after 2 weeks. Because the flattening of the dermal-epidermal junction is the most reproducible structural change in aged skin, this soy extract appears to rejuvenate the structure of mature skin.

Background: The influence of ageing on the density of the functional entities of the papillae containing nutritive capillaries, here in terms as the papillary index, and the effect of topically applied vitamin C were investigated by confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) in vivo.

Biochemical and structural changes of dermal connective tissue substantially contribute to the phenotype of aging skin. To study connective tissue metabolism with respect to ultraviolet (UV) exposure, we performed an in vitro (human dermal fibroblasts) and an in vivo complementary DNA array study in combination with protein analysis in young and old volunteers. Several genes of the collagen metabolism such as Collagen I, III and VI as well as heat shock protein 47 and matrix metalloproteinase‐1 are expressed differentially, indicating UV‐mediated effects on collagen expression, processing and degradation. In particular, Collagen I is time and age dependently reduced after a single UV exposure in human skin in vivo. Moreover, older subjects display a lower baseline level and a shorter UV‐mediated increase in hyaluronan (HA) levels. To counteract these age‐dependent changes, cultured fibroblasts were treated with a specific soy extract. This treatment resulted in increased collagen and HA synthesis. In a placebo‐controlled in vivo study, topical application of an isoflavone‐containing emulsion significantly enhanced the number of dermal papillae per area after 2 weeks. Because the flattening of the dermal‐epidermal junction is the most reproducible structural change in aged skin, this soy extract appears to rejuvenate the structure of mature skin.

BackgroundPeople tend to feel better after exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. This study was performed to investigate the impact of UVA exposure on psychological and neuroendocrine parameters.MethodsFifty-three volunteers were separated into 42 individuals who had UVA exposure and 11 individuals who had no UVA exposure. The UVA-exposed volunteers had irradiation sessions six times in a three-week period. All volunteers completed two questionnaires at baseline (T1) and at the end of the study (T3). For the determination of serotonin and melatonin serum levels of all volunteers blood samples were collected at baseline (T1), after the first UVA exposure (T2), and at the end of the study after the sixth exposure (T3).ResultsUVA-exposed volunteers felt significantly more balanced, less nervous, more strengthened, and more satisfied with their appearance at T3. By contrast, the controls did not show significant changes of psychological parameters. In comparison to T1 and T3, serum serotonin was significantly higher and the serum melatonin was significantly lower for the volunteers exposed to UVA at T2. Both, for exposed and non-exposed volunteers serotonin and melatonin levels did not significantly differ at T1 and T3.ConclusionsIt remains obscure, whether the exposure to UVA or other components of the treatment were responsible for the psychological benefits observed. The changes of circulating neuroendocrine mediators found after UVA exposure at T2 may be due to an UVA-induced effect via a cutaneous pathway. Nevertheless, the positive psychological effects observed in our study cannot be attributed to circulating serotonin or melatonin.

We present here a new cosmetic formula system containing 3% ascorbic acid based on an optimized oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion. This formulation demonstrated a good long-term stability of the active ingredient and also of the emulsion itself. It could be deduced from in vitro release studies that this O/W emulsion enabled a better release of the hydrophilic active agent than an alternative W/O emulsion. By measuring the ultraweak photon emission, which is a well-established parameter for the oxidative stress in the skin, the high in vivo antioxidant capacity of 3% ascorbic acid was demonstrated after 1 week of product application. This placebo-controlled study also proved that ascorbic acid in an O/W cream reduced oxidative stress in human skin significantly better than the derivative sodium ascorbyl-2-phosphate, a more stable vitamin C replacement commonly used in cosmetic formulations. With increasing age, the number of papillae in the epidermal-dermal junction zone in human skin are reduced. This implies a possible consequence of reduced mechanical resistance of the skin and impaired supply of the epidermis with nutrients. In a 1-month placebo-controlled study on 25 human volunteers, a significant increase in the number of dermal papillae after application of the 3% ascorbic acid cream was demonstrated, using a confocal laser scanning microscope. Fine lines and wrinkles are a characteristic sign of aged and especially photo-aged skin. Application of 3% ascorbic acid in a 12-week placebo-controlled usage study indicated a significant reduction of facial wrinkles. Altogether, 3% ascorbic acid in a cosmetic O/W emulsion has been shown to be appropriately stable and to enable a good release of the active agent in vitro as a precondition for a high efficacy in vivo. Application in vivo resulted in a significant reduction of oxidative stress in the skin, an improvement of the epidermal-dermal microstructure and a reduction of fine lines and wrinkles in aged skin. These results were received within a relatively short period of time of product application.

Sunbed exposures seem to induce photoadaptation not only by skin pigmentation but also by epidermal thickening that is predominantly due to an increase in thickness of the horny layer. Moreover, our data indicate that UVA radiation has an influence on the cell size of the granular layer. CLSM is a promising tool for photobiological studies in vivo.