G. Don is a traditional herb that has been associated with multiple biological activities. In this study, we investigated the antioxidative/antiaging activities and performed an active component analysis of the non-fermented and fermented (using ) extracts of G. Don. The antioxidative activities of the fermented extract were higher than those of non-fermented extracts. The elastase inhibitory activity, inhibitory effects on UV-induced MMP-1 expression, and ability to promote type I procollagen synthesis were investigated in Hs68 human fibroblasts cells. These tests also revealed that the fermented extract had increased antiaging activities compared with the non-fermented extract. A component analysis of the ethyl acetate fractions of non-fermented and fermented extracts was performed using TLC, HPLC, and LC/ESI-MS/MS to observe changes in the components before and after fermentation. Six components that were different before and after fermentation were investigated. It was thought that kaempferol and quercetin were converted from kaempferol glucosides and quercetin glucosides, respectively, via bioconversion with the fermentation strain. These results indicate that the fermented extract of G. Don has potential for use as a natural cosmetic material with antioxidative and antiaging effects.

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BackgroundCoffee silverskin is a thin film that covers the raw coffee bean. In general, coffee silverskin, which detaches during the coffee roasting process, is disposed as firelighters or dispatched to landfills and can cause serious environmental pollution. The aim of this study was to investigate the feasibility of using coffee silverskin as a functional material in cosmetics by evaluating its bioactive ingredients, antioxidative activity, cytoprotective effect, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1)-inhibiting effect, and anti-melanogenesis effect.ResultsTo this end, a 50% ethanol (EtOH) extract and its ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fraction were prepared from coffee silverskin; caffeine was found to be the major compound in the extract. Both the 50% EtOH extract and its EtOAc fraction exhibited antioxidant activities. However, the EtOAc fraction showed a greater radical-scavenging activity and reducing power than that shown by the 50% EtOH extract. Furthermore, the EtOAc fraction increased cell viability in a UVB-irradiated human keratinocyte injury model and significantly suppressed UVB-induced MMP-1 expression and α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated melanin production in HaCaT keratinocytes and B16F1 melanocytes, respectively. Interestingly, caffeine, the major component of the EtOAc fraction, did not show an inhibitory effect. Thus, the antioxidant capacity of the coffee silverskin extract may be attributable to some compounds that exhibit a high antioxidant capacity even at low concentrations or the total antioxidant capacity of various constituent phenolic compounds.ConclusionOur findings indicate that coffee silverskin has the potential for application as a natural functional material in multifunctional cosmetics.

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