PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to achieve one garment with multiple uses, reduce waste and increase the fun of clothing design.Design/methodology/approachThrough the comparison of the structural design of windbreaker with the structural design of suit and other coats, find out the similarities and differences between them in the structure then provide a reliable theoretical basis for the combination and transformation of the two; and then start with the structural theory of men's windbreaker, from the detail structure and the structure. The optimization design of the overall structure, the application of mathematical theory to establish a regular structure design method, so that it can be split through the zipper combination into men's suits or other coats. Finally, from the perspective of technology, the functional transformation from men's windbreaker to men's casual suit and other coats is completed in terms of style, structure and technology.FindingsThrough reasonable clothing structure design and invisible zipper layout, one type of clothing can be used as multiple types of clothing.Originality/valueA new fashion design method is proposed to minimize the waste of fashion design process.
PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to improve the efficiency of pattern-making for suit lapels in the apparel industry, to master the perceptual knowledge of suit lapels and to establish a mapping relationship between suit lapel styles and perceptual judgment.Design/methodology/approachIn this paper, notch lapel, peak lapel and shawl lapel are studied, and the authors extract the structural features in the order of drafting as the input values for model training. At the same time, after the expert screening, four perceptual evaluation dimensions based on a priori knowledge are selected as output values, which are finally classified using a decision tree algorithm.FindingsThe results show that different design parameters produce different perceptions of people's vision and, thus, different perceptual judgments. The decision tree model can effectively classify the perceptual judgment of the lapel shape.Originality/valueThe findings of this study help garment factories to provide optimal judgment of basic parameters before the production of a suit lapel and to improve the efficiency of the design.
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