This work aims to determine the roles of reactive oxygen species HO∙ and HO in the bleaching of melanins by alkaline hydrogen peroxide. Experiments using melanosomes isolated from human hair indicated that the HO∙ radical generated in the outside solution does not contribute significantly to bleaching. However, studies using soluble Sepia melanin demonstrated that both HO and HO∙ will individually bleach melanin. Additionally, when both oxidants are present, bleaching is increased dramatically in both rate and extent. Careful experimental design enabled the separation of the roles and effects of these key reactive species, HO∙ and HO. Rationalisation of the results presented, and review of previous literature, allowed the postulation of a simplified general scheme whereby the strong oxidant HO∙ is able to pre-oxidise melanin units to o-quinones enabling more facile ring opening by the more nucleophilic HO. In this manner the efficiency of the roles of both species is maximised.

The catalytic formation of hydroxyl radicals in oxidative hair colourant systems in the presence of added copper ions was measured and quantified using a colorimetric probe N,N'-(5-nitro-1,3-phenylene)bisglutaramide. Also monitored in the same experiments was the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide. The first set of experiments was performed using aqueous model solutions containing the key oxidant actives in a hair colourant, ammonium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide at pH 10, with added copper and calcium ions. The second set of experiments was performed in the presence of hair containing different levels of copper in conditions very close to those found during hair colouring. Both sets of experiments demonstrate the ability of copper ions to trigger the formation of hydroxyl radicals and catalyse the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide. The ability of chelants ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and N,N'-ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) to moderate the flux of hydroxyl radicals formed in solution systems was demonstrated in the presence of copper ions alone. However, only EDDS was successful in the presence of both calcium and copper ions. This was confirmed in the hair experiments where again only EDDS was successful at preventing hydroxyl radical formation where hair is added as the source of copper and calcium ions. These results are explained using metal speciation modelling and demonstrate the importance of the chelant to be able to specifically bind and prevent the one-electron redox chemistry of copper in the presence of high levels of calcium ions as found in hair. The formation of hydroxyl radicals during the colouring process was shown to lead to hair structure damage as measured by protein loss. EDDS was demonstrated to significantly reduce cuticle damage by suppressing the formation of the hydroxyl radicals in systems with realistic concentrations of calcium and copper.

Cu(II)-catalysed decomposition of hydrogen peroxide at alkaline pH in the presence of etidronic acid (HEDP) showed a sigmoid kinetic profile typical of autocatalytic reactions. However, the reaction abruptly stopped well before all hydrogen peroxide had decomposed, and further addition of Cu(II) and HEDP did not restart the reaction. Results of a mechanistic study suggest that the reaction involves the formation of an active catalyst which decomposes hydrogen peroxide and oxidizes HEDP. Once all HEDP has been consumed, the active complex triggers Cu(II) aggregation to form remarkably stable but catalytically inactive nanoparticles. The nanoparticles were found to be basic Cu(II) phosphate/carbonate. They exhibit self-poisoning behaviour in the hydrogen peroxide decomposition and undergo seed-mediated growth upon addition of further Cu(II).