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Synopsis We have compared the in vitro cellular toxicity and the in vivo ocular irritation potency of 16 surfactants (7 non ionics, 3 anionics, 2 amphoterics, 4 cationics) ranking from very weakly irritant to strongly irritant. In vitro, the cellular toxicity was estimated on Chinese hamster lung fibroblasts (V79) using a cell mortality test and a cell growth inhibition test. For each surfactant, a lethal concentration 50% without foetal calf serum (LC.50-0) and with 10% foetal calf serum (LC50-I0), as well as the concentration required to reduce 50% of the growth (CI.50) were determined. In vivo, each surfactant was applied directly to the cornea of six albino rabbits. The maximal ocular irritation score (I0 max) and the ocular irritation score obtained seven days later (I0 J7) were collected. Comparison of in vitro results with those obtained in vivo showed good correlations, particularly when I0 max and the difference (LC.50-10 - LC50-0) were considered (r= 0.845, P<0.001). These results suggest that the use of cell culture tests as pre-screening systems to appreciate eye irritation potency of surfactants could be a reliable alternative method in order to reduce the use of the Draize rabbit eye test. They can provide a better knowledge of the irritative process induced by surfactants (cellular toxicity and protein interaction potency).

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The HET-CAM (hen's egg test-chorio-allantoic membrane), described by Luepke in 1985, permits the study of immediate effects following the administration of test substances to the chorioallantoic membrane of 10-day-incubated White Leghorn chicken eggs. The results of a study of 60 chemicals and 41 cosmetic formulations are presented here. Intralaboratory reproducibility was established with a double-blind study of 20 surfactants at two concentrations. The results show a high rank correlation between the scores given by both experimenters: the Spearman's rho is greater than 0.9 (p < 10-8). The 60 chemicals were studied at a concentration equivalent to 10% of the concentration tested in vivo. They were classified according to the three EEC categories of ocular irritancy, and when a correlation between the HET-CAM scores and historical Draize in vivo data was determined, the corresponding Spearman's rho value was 0.72 (p < 10-4). The 41 formulations (make-up removers, shower gels, shampoos, creams and body milks) were tested by two protocols: rinsed and non-rinsed. The correlation between the HET-CAM scores and the historical Draize in vivo maximum average scores was studied, and the rhos obtained were 0.77 and 0.76 (p < 10 -8), respectively. The advantages of the HET-CAM method lie in its sensitivity, rapidity and moderate cost. Both chemicals and cosmetics formulations can be tested, and specific families can be assessed using modified and more-appropriate protocols. However, to ensure that a good reproducibility and sensitivity is provided, the use of reference materials is strongly recommended. The satisfactory performances of the HET-CAM test in many previous evaluation studies (e.g. those of the BGA, CTFA, EEC and OPAL) show that it can be a useful assay as part of a battery of in vitro tests for the screening of new ingredients and formulations.