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In recent years, research on natural products has gained considerable attention, particularly in the cosmetic industry, which is looking for new bio-active and biodegradable molecules. In this study, cosmetic properties of cyanobacteria and red macroalgae were analyzed. The extractions were conducted in different solvents (water, ethanol and two combinations of water:ethanol). The main molecules with antioxidant and photoprotective capacity were mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), scytonemin and phenolic compounds. The highest contents of scytonemin (only present in cyanobacteria) were observed in Scytonema sp. (BEA 1603B) and Lyngbya sp. (BEA 1328B). The highest concentrations of MAAs were found in the red macroalgae Porphyra umbilicalis, Gelidium corneum and Osmundea pinnatifida and in the cyanobacterium Lyngbya sp. Scytonema sp. was the unique species that presented an MAA with maximum absorption in the UV-B band, being identified as mycosporine-glutaminol for the first time in this species. The highest content of polyphenols was observed in Scytonema sp. and P. umbilicalis. Water was the best extraction solvent for MAAs and phenols, whereas scytonemin was better extracted in a less polar solvent such as ethanol:dH2O (4:1). Cyanobacterium extracts presented higher antioxidant activity than those of red macroalgae. Positive correlations of antioxidant activity with different molecules, especially polyphenols, biliproteins and MAAs, were observed. Hydroethanolic extracts of some species incorporated in creams showed an increase in the photoprotection capacity in comparison with the base cream. Extracts of these organisms could be used as natural photoprotectors improving the diversity of sunscreens. The combination of different extracts enriched in scytonemin and MAAs could be useful to design broad-band natural UV-screen cosmeceutical products.

Macroalgae belong to a diverse group of organisms that could be exploited for biomolecule application. Among the biocompounds found in this group, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are highlighted mainly due to their photoprotection, antioxidant properties, and high photo and thermo-stability, which are attractive characteristics for the development of cosmeceutical products. Therefore, here we revise published data about MAAs, including their biosynthesis, biomass production, extraction, characterization, identification, purification, and bioactivities. MAAs can be found in many algae species, but the highest concentrations are found in red macroalgae, mainly in the order Bangiales, as Porphyra spp. In addition to the species, the content of MAAs can vary depending on environmental factors, of which solar radiation and nitrogen availability are the most influential. MAAs can confer photoprotection due to their capacity to absorb ultraviolet radiation or reduce the impact of free radicals on cells, among other properties. To extract these compounds, different approaches can be used. The efficiency of these methods can be evaluated with characterization and identification using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), associated with other apparatus such as mass spectrometry (MS) and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). Therefore, the data presented in this review allow a broad comprehension of MAAs and show perspectives for their inclusion in cosmeceutical products.

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Cyanobacteria are an important group of microorganisms of significant economic interest due to, for ex- ample, the antioxidant capacity of their metabolites. Cyanobium sp. LEGE 06113 is a marine cyanobacterium poorly studied, but with promising future applications. The aim of this study was to optimize the light conditions (both source and irradiance) and nutrient (N and P) concentration for Cyanobium sp. production as a source of high-valued com- pounds. The optimization of the processing parameters was performed using two different light sources (fluorescent and low-pressure sodium lamp), four irradiances (50, 100, 200 and 300 μmol photons m–2 s–1) and two variations of BG11 medium (BG11 and BG11+, with the second containing double amounts of phosphates and nitrates). The effects of the three factors were evaluated on the biomass production, photosynthetic activity, biochemical composition and antioxidant capacity. A synergistic effect between the light source, light intensity, and medium was observed for all measured parameters, with the greatest impact of light irradiance on the metabolism of Cyanobium sp. The combination of the SOX lamp, BG11+ medium, and a light irradiance of 200 μmol photons m–2 s–1 was optimal for the cultivation of Cyanobium sp. This work reports the tools for the production of Cyanobium sp. as a source of high-value products, thus increasing its biotechnological potentials.

Overexposure to solar radiation has become an increasingly worrying problem due to the damage to the skin caused by ultraviolet radiation (UVR). In previous studies, the potential of an extract enriched with glycosylated flavonoids from the endemic Colombian high-mountain plant Baccharis antioquensis as a photoprotector and antioxidant was demonstrated. Therefore, in this work we sought to develop a dermocosmetic formulation with broad-spectrum photoprotection from the hydrolysates and purified polyphenols obtained from this species. Hence, the extraction of its polyphenols with different solvents was evaluated, followed by hydrolysis and purification, in addition to the characterization of its main compounds by HPLC–DAD and HPLC–MS, and evaluation of its photoprotective capacity through the measurement of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), UVA Protection Factor (UVAPF), other Biological Effective Protection Factors (BEPFs), and its safety through the cytotoxicity. In the dry methanolic extract (DME) and purified methanolic extract (PME), flavonoids such as quercetin and kaempferol were found, which demonstrated antiradical capacity, as well as UVA–UVB photoprotection and prevention of harmful biological effects, such as elastosis, photoaging, immunosuppression, DNA damage, among others, which demonstrates the potential of the ingredients in this type of extract to be applied in photoprotection dermocosmetics.

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