Topical sunscreens are widely used to prevent sunburns and long-term skin damage including cancer. Recently, conventional chemical UV absorbers have been criticized and in some cases banned for adverse human and environmental health impacts. In this investigation, we evaluated naturally derived UV absorbers including vitamins, polyphenols, carotenoids, and amino acids to determine safety and efficacy profiles. Human and ecological hazards were evaluated, as well as the in vitro sun protection factor and critical wavelength. These attributes were compared to commercial UV absorbers such as octinoxate and oxybenzone to determine viability in personal care products. We found that resveratrol, ferulic acid, and ethyl ferulate demonstrate significant UV-absorbing capacity and lower hazard levels compared to current-use sunscreen active ingredients.

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Alginates gel rapidly under ambient conditions and have widely documented potential to form protective matrices for sensitive bioactive cargo. Most commonly, alginate gelation occurs via calcium mediated electrostatic crosslinks between the linear polyuronic acid polymers. A recent breakthrough to form crosslinked alginate microcapsules (CLAMs) by in situ gelation during spray drying (“CLAMs process”) has demonstrated applications in protection and controlled delivery of bioactives in food, cosmetics, and agriculture. The extent of crosslinking of alginates in CLAMs impacts the effectiveness of its barrier properties. For example, higher crosslinking extents can improve oxidative stability and limit diffusion of the encapsulated cargo. Crosslinking in CLAMs can be controlled by varying the calcium to alginate ratio; however, the choice of alginates used in the process also influences the ultimate extent of crosslinking. To understand how to select alginates to target crosslinking in CLAMs, we examined the roles of alginate molecular properties. A surprise finding was the formation of alginic acid gelling in the CLAMs that is a consequence of simultaneous and rapid pH reduction and moisture removal that occurs during spray drying. Thus, spray dried CLAMs gelation is due to calcium crosslinking and alginic acid formation, and unlike external gelation methods, is insensitive to the molecular composition of the alginates. The ‘extent of gelation’ of spray dried CLAMs is influenced by the molecular weights of the alginates at saturating calcium concentrations. Alginate viscosity correlates with molecular weight; thus, viscosity is a convenient criterion for selecting commercial alginates to target gelation extent in CLAMs.

A recently patented one-step in situ cross-linked alginate microencapsulation (CLAM) by spray-drying (i.e., the UC Davis CLAMs technology) can overcome the high cost of scale-up that limits commercial applications. While increasing calcium loading in the CLAMs process can increase the extent of cross-linking and improve retention and protection of the encapsulated cargo, the potential for residual undissolved calcium salt crystals in the final product can be a concern for some applications. Here, we demonstrate an alternate one-step spray-dry CLAMs process using pH-responsive chelation of calcium. The “Chelate CLAMs” process is an improvement over the patented process that controls ion availability based on pH-responsive solubility of the calcium salt. Hyaluronic acid was encapsulated in CLAMs to minimize swelling and release in aqueous formulations. CLAMs with 61% (d.b.) hyaluronic acid (HA-CLAMs) demonstrated restricted plumping, limited water absorption capacity, and reduced leaching, retaining up to 49% hyaluronic acid after 2 h in water. Alternatively, “Chelate HA-CLAMs” formed by the improved process exhibited nearly full retention of hyaluronic acid over 2 h in water and remained visibly insoluble after 1 year of storage in water at 4 °C. Successful hyaluronic acid retention in CLAMs is likely due in part to its ability to cross-link with calcium.