Sportswear should fit well each individual athlete while preserving its ergonomic and pressure comfort upon sport-specific movements. This study aims to quantify the effect of two rowing postures on selected body measurements and skin–sportswear interface pressure for competitive rowers of age 18–35. The results based on average body measurements of a total number of 74 male and female rowers indicate a considerable influence of the catch and finish posture on both body measurements and interface skin–sportswear pressure, regardless of the gender. Back length and across back width were the most affected by posture, and increased especially from the static to catch position by 12% (6.1 cm) and 16% (6.5 cm) for male rowers, and respectively by 11% (4.9 cm) and 13% (4.7 cm) for female rowers. In general, the posture led to the larger influence on pressure than on anthropometrics of maximum 55% versus 16% for male and up to 82% versus 13% for female rowers, respectively. The maximum interface pressure (e.g. 10 mmHg) was rather low, which suggest there was no pressure discomfort. Prototypes were developed and the fit of garments was investigated in various postures. For the considered fabrics and design, an increase of the garment pattern to accommodate the catch maximum changes led to a poor fit of the prototype MR58-CP, which was generally too large, especially in the static posture. On the contrary, prototype MR58-FP that considered some finish rowing posture-related body changes and design adjustments based on experience with the first prototype and input from the test person had the best fit.
Wear comfort is a fundamental and universal need for consumers and depends on a multitude of factors among which thermo-physiological comfort, skin sensorial comfort and garment construction parameters such as design and fit. This paper discusses three case-studies which demonstrate the importance of the design, fit and fabric finish on wear comfort. The studies involved: a. The application of phase change materials (PCMs) to the fabric used in unisuits for rowers to better maintain their thermal balance during exercise. b. Improving the design of workwear for nursing staff. c. The development of well fitted functional body wear involving moisture regulating fabrics to prevent non-aesthetic sweat stains on shirts and blouses. The results have shown that minor adaptations to the design and fit which is well adjusted to the body shape of the wearer can have a major impact on the thermophysiological and tactile comfort feeling of the wearer. On the other hand, the use of phase change materials had little effect on the skin temperature of the wearer which was in stark contrast with the use of moisture regulating fabrics that indeed largely influence overall comfort sensation of garments. These insights were very valuable to the garment manufacturers which meanwhile have implemented these results into their products. The adapted nursing uniforms were taken into production and enthusiastically welcomed by the end users. Shortly the functional body wear will also come available on the market.
Until the 1950's clothing was predominantly designed and manufactured on a 'made-to-measure' basis. Today the clothing industry has evolved towards producing several collections a year in large volumes. However, fashion companies can offer well-fitting clothing to only 30 % of their target. When addressing population groups with body proportions categorically different from the average this is often reduced to a mere 10%. This stands in stark contrast with the changing demands of the consumers. To cope with this new challenge, the clothing industry should shift from a mass production to a mass customization business model. Several new technologies among which 3D body scanning can help mass customization operations. This paper discusses the use of 3D anthropometric data for overcoming fitting problems through body shape analysis, identification of anthropometric changes with posture and age and development of adequate sizing charts.
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