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This study tests the hypothesis that horizontal density gradients have the potential to significantly contribute to the accumulation of suspended particulate matter (SPM) in the Wadden Sea. It is shown by means of long-term observations at various positions in the Wadden Sea of the German Bight that the water in the inner regions of the Wadden Sea is typically about 0.5-1.0 kg m Ϫ3 less dense than the North Sea water. During winter this occurs mostly because of freshwater runoff and net precipitation; during summer it occurs mostly because of differential heating. It is demonstrated with idealized one-dimensional water column model simulations that the interaction of such small horizontal density gradients with tidal currents generates net onshore SPM fluxes. Major mechanisms for this are tidal straining, estuarine circulation, and tidal mixing asymmetries. Three-dimensional model simulations in a semienclosed Wadden Sea embayment with periodic tidal forcing show that SPM with sufficiently high settling velocity (w s ϭ 10 Ϫ3 m s Ϫ1) is accumulating in the Wadden Sea Bight because of density gradients. This is proven through a comparative model simulation in which the dynamic effects of the density gradients are switched off, with the consequence of no SPM accumulation. These numerical model results motivate future targeted field studies in different Wadden Sea regions with the aim to further support the hypothesis.

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of the original manuscript: Staneva, J.; Stanev, E.V.; Wolff, J.-O.; Baldewien, T.H.; Reuter, R.; Flemming, B.; Bartholomae, A.; Bolding, K.:Abstract This work deals with analysis of hydrographic observations and results of numerical simulations. The data base includes ADCP observations, continuous measurements on data stations and satellite data originating from the Medium Resolution Imaging Spectrometer (MERIS) onboard the ESA satellite ENVISAT with a spatial resolution of 300 m. Numerical simulations use nested models with horizontal resolutions ranging from 1 km in the German Bight to 200 m in the East Frisian Wadden Sea coupled with a suspended matter transport model. Modern satellite observations have now a comparable horizontal resolution with high-resolution numerical model of the entire area of the East Frisian Wadden Sea allowing to describe and validate new and so far unknown patterns of sediment distribution. The two data sets are consistent and reveal an oscillatory behavior of sediment pools to the north of the back-barrier basins and clear propagation patterns of tidally driven suspended particulate matter outflow into the North Sea. The good agreement between observations and simulations is convincing evidence that the model simulates the basic dynamics and sediment transport processes, which motivates its further use in hindcasting, as well as in the initial steps towards forecasting circulation and sediment dynamics in the coastal zone.

In the long term development of the research on wind waves and their modelling, the present situation is framed with a short look at the past, a critical analysis of the present capabilities and a foresight of where the field is likely to go. After a short introduction, Chapter 2 deals with the basic processes at work and their modelling aspects. Chapter 3 highlights the interaction with wind and currents. Chapter 4 stresses the need for a more complete, spectral, approach in data assimilation. Chapter 5 summarizes the situation with a discussion on the present status in wave modelling and a look at what we can expect in the future.

The Copernicus Marine Environment Monitoring Service (CMEMS) provides regular and systematic reference information on the physical and biogeochemical ocean and sea-ice state for the global ocean and the European regional seas. CMEMS serves a wide range of users (more than 15,000 users are now registered to the service) and applications. Observations are a fundamental pillar of the CMEMS value-added chain that goes from observation to information and users. Observations are used by CMEMS Thematic Assembly Centres (TACs) to derive high-level data products and by CMEMS Monitoring and Forecasting Centres (MFCs) to validate and constrain their global and regional ocean analysis and forecasting systems. This paper presents an overview of CMEMS, its evolution, and how the value of in situ and satellite observations is increased through the generation of high-level products ready to be used by downstream applications and services. The complementary nature of satellite and in situ observations is highlighted. Le Traon et al. Copernicus Marine Service: Observations Long-term perspectives for the development of CMEMS are described and implications for the evolution of the in situ and satellite observing systems are outlined. Results from Observing System Evaluations (OSEs) and Observing System Simulation Experiments (OSSEs) illustrate the high dependencies of CMEMS systems on observations. Finally future CMEMS requirements for both satellite and in situ observations are detailed.

The DieCAST ocean model is applied to a study of the circulation in the Black Sea, using 1r128 horizontal resolution and with 20 vertical layers. Boundary forcings are monthly wind stress, evaporation minus precipitation, air-sea heat flux, freshwater influx from 11 rivers and exchange with the Mediterranean Sea through the Bosphorus Strait.The model reproduces fundamental physical features of the Black Sea: seasonal fluctuations in the quasi-permanent cyclonic Rim Current, numerous anticyclonic meanders and eddies lying between the Rim Current and the coast, Rossby waves propagating westward across the basin, coastally trapped waves, and the annual cycle of vertical mixing. Model results shed light on the mechanisms affecting such features. These include interactions of the Rim Current with coastal bathymetry abutments, leading to recirculations that pinch off vortices as in island wakes, and possible baroclinic instability of the Rim Current; these are modulated by the large annual stratification cycle above a relatively shallow and strong pycnocline, as is the Rim Current itself. The resulting wake eddies often merge into major coastal circulation features such as the seasonal Batumi and Sevastopol eddies. These anticyclonic eddies play a fundamental role in coastal and open-sea Ž . exchange processes. Hydrographic data from sampling cruises and recent Topex-Poseiden TrP altimeter data strongly supports our analysis. q