Recently, small scale fashion industries are growing quite rapidly in Indonesia. This is due to the continuous encouragement and facilitation by the Government of Indonesia to improve workforce in creative industry. As fashion industries depend on the availability of dyes as one of their resource, it is very important to develop a new and sustainable supply of dyes for dyeing process in fashion industries. Hence, research on the extraction of dyes from sustainable and natural resources for fashion industries are considered very important and urgent. Dyes for fashion and textile are naturally occurred in plants or parts of plants. The extraction of dyes from these sources can be conducted by using simple mixing between solvent and the plants inside a soxhlet extractor or reflux apparatus. In this study, the extraction processes of natural dyes from two materials, i.e. sappanwood, and mango leaf employing combination of maceration, soxhlet and reflux techniques were reported. The experiments were conducted to analyse the effects of extraction time and solvent to materials ratios on the yield of dyes. The experimental results showed that for all materials the optimum ratio of material and solvent was 1 : 6. In addition, the reflux followed by maceration could produce dyes that can be utilised for fabric coloring that suits the industrial needs.
In recent years, due to the massive pollution spread, the switchover to the eco-friendly process is being considered. Particularly, in textile industries, the wastewater containing dangerous substances dangers the condition of the rivers directing to the use of natural dyes. The existing traditional industries often use natural sources with lacks of study about the method and process condition to gain the best quality and the highest quantity of colorants. This study aim is to find the time for the extraction using common materials and simple method resembling the real situation. The common natural dye source, Mangifera indica leaves, particularly from Gadung species – a common type of Mangifera indica in Indonesia – is on this study using reflux method combined with methanol and water as its solvent separately. The steps used is a modification from the preceding process, which includes tannin and fatty acids in the final product. Spectral analysis indicated that the best time for extraction using water, which produces pale yellow color is 60 min, and the best time for extraction using methanol, which produces green color is 360 min. Therefore, the next application of boiling the materials with water can be reduced to the written times above.
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