Mercerisation changes the fine structure, morphology and conformation of cotton cellulose chains (cellulose I to cellulose II), resulting in a variation in fibre strength and lustre as well as adsorption properties. Recently it has been shown that mercerisation also changes the electrokinetic behaviour of cotton. The aim of the work presented here is to study the behaviour in unmercerised and mercerised cotton. The zeta potential of cotton fibres was measured by the streaming current method, using an EKA electrokinetic analyser. The relationships between zeta potential and the pH of a potassium chloride solution on the one hand and the point of zero charge (PZC) on the other, determined by titration with a cationic surfactant (cetylpyridinium chloride), were investigated.
Surfactants as organic compounds are widely used in the processes of textile finishing and care with regard to different variations and specific hydrophilic/hydrophobic character. Specific behaviour of these compounds is partly based on the adsorption process. In this study the adsorption and desorption of ionic surfactants have been studied upon the influence of fibre composition and surfactant ionogenity as well as variation of hydrophobic chain length and hydrophilic group in the molecule. Textile fibres were characterized through electrokinetic potential, sorption characteristics and swelling capacity expressed by moisture regain and water retention value (WRV). Different types of cationic and anionic surfactants were adsorbed on cotton, wool, polyester and polypropylene fibres at 20°C during 60 minutes. The quantity of adsorbed surfactants on textile fibres was determined by potentiometric titration. The textile fibres were centrifuged afterwards and the amount of surfactants was determined in the centrifugate, respectively. Drying followed at 60°C. The desorption of surfactants was performed at 20°C during 30 minutes. The results showed a correlation between amount of adsorbed, desorbed and residual surfactants and swelling capacity expressed through WRV.
The influence of wet cleaning, as a promising process compared to washing, on the physical and chemical properties of functional cotton fabrics with high added value is presented. Fabric characterization before and after durable press finishing and after 10 cycles of washing and wet cleaning is made using standard methods – measuring dimensional stability, construction characteristics, crease resistance, tensile properties, swelling properties, appearance with coefficient of friction and geometrical roughness, surface characterization by scanning electron microscopy and electrokinetic potential. It can be seen that wet cleaning, which has been used in practice, together with adequate pretreatment, as a substitute for dry cleaning, can also be successfully implemented as a process to substitute washing, particularly when high-value-added articles are concerned.
Bleached cotton and polyester/cotton blend fabrics were laundered at 60°C and 90°C with standard ECE detergent with addition of selected fluorescent compounds through 10 cycles. As fluorescent whitening agents for cellulosic materials are most often used in detergents, two types of these were selected – stilbene and biphenyl. UV absorber, a stilbene derivative, as a separate type of fluorescent compounds, was added on its own and in a combination with both types of fluorescent whitening agents. After each laundering cycle cotton and PES/cotton blend fabrics were exposed to artificial light for 60 and 180 minutes. Obtained optical and protective effects were monitored through whiteness degree, remission and Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF). Optical effects of cotton fabrics laundered in a detergent containing fluorescent whitening agents of stilbene and biphenyl type exhibit considerable sensitivity to light. It was not found that irradiation reduces the UPF meaning that even decomposition products of fluorescent compounds, created by irradiation, absorb UV radiation as well.
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