A topical acetone/diethylether (A/E) lipid extraction method was evaluated for its suitability for use in the study of stratum corneum lipids in various skin disorders. Its efficiency was compared in vitro with topical chloroform/methanol (C/M) extraction and with the classical 'integral' C/M extraction (submerged tissue) of stratum corneum or whole epidermis. To estimate the depth of lipid removal by A/E extraction, light microscopic and freeze-fracture electron microscopic studies were carried out on A/E and C/M topically treated skin samples. The in vivo experiments consisted of topical A/E extraction and of classical C/M extraction of scrapings of the stratum corneum. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured before and after topical A/E extraction and after every scraping procedure, and correlated with TEWL values found after stripping of the stratum corneum. The total amount of lipid found with both topical extraction procedures was lower than that found with the integral extraction of the stratum corneum. Light microscopy showed that topical C/M extraction induced cell damage in the living epidermal cell layers. Great interindividual variation in overall lipid composition was shown in the in vitro experiments irrespective of the extraction protocol used. However, the ceramide (CER) profiles in a single skin sample from the same subject were similar irrespective of the protocol used, and a uniformity in the CER profiles was found in skin samples from different subjects. Similar results were obtained with in vivo topical A/E extractions: marked interindividual variation was seen in overall lipid composition, but not in the CER profile.(ABSTRACT TRUNCATED AT 250 WORDS)

To determine whether epidermis reconstructed in vitro at the air-liquid interface on de-epidermized dermis has the capacity to normalize the expression of differentiation-specific markers, its lipid composition and stratum corneum barrier properties, human skin equivalents were transplanted onto athymic nude mice and investigated at different stages ranging from 1 to 4 months after grafting. Indirect immunofluorescence with species- or non-species-specific antibodies revealed that as early as 1 month after transplantation keratinization, and involucrin, loricrin and transglutaminase patterns were normalized. Human melanocytes were observed in the basal layer of the pigmented graft. As revealed by high-performance thin-layer chromatography and transmission electron microscopy after ruthenium tetroxide fixation, the lipid profile and the intracellular lamellar organization were similar to those found in natural epidermis. Transepidermal water loss measurements and penetration studies showed that the barrier properties of the reconstructed epidermis after transplantation were comparable to those of normal human skin.

The barrier properties of human epidermis grafted for 1–3 months onto nude mice are compared with normal human skin. Beside penetration studies with tritiated water and measurements of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), we analyzed the epidermal lipids by high-performance thin layer chromatography and evaluated the ultrastructure of the intercorneocyte lipid arrangement by freeze fracture electron microscopy (FFEM). The permeability of human skin for tritiated water and the TEWL exhibit no significant changes after grafting onto nude mice. FFEM analysis showed that grafted epidermis has the same morphological pattern as normal human epidermis. Regular desmosomes and lamellar lipid structures are present. Grafting did not qualitatively affect the lipid composition of human epidermis. Ceramides which contribute largely to the barrier function, have the same distribution profile.