In designing a harbor an engineer must consider the diffraction of waves. In most studies, only uniform periodic waves coming from a single direction are treated. However, wind generated waves in the ocean are two dimensional, and the diffraction of waves due to a breakwater should be treated with this in mind. As methods of measuring the two-dimensional spectra of waves were developed recently, it was decided to determine whether or not diffraction theory could be applied with sufficient accuracy for two-dimensional wave spectra. The results of a laboratory study presented herein show that a knowledge of the two-dimensional spectra can be used together with diffraction theory to predict the energy spectra of waves in the lee of a breakwater within an accuracy that is probably acceptable for many engineering problems.
As a forerunner of a comprehensive study of wave and energy climate of the Nile Delta coast covering a period of more than 50 years, wave measurements taken in 3 locations along the coast in the year 1972 were statistically analysed. Shortcut methods based on statistical approach were used to analyse the wave records enabling quicker analysis. Spectral analysis of the wave records indicates narrow spectral band similar to Raleigh distribution. The histograms and frequency distribution curves of significant wave heights, and the relationships between various statistical prarameters such as H , H,,,„, H,,„ and H also max 1/10' 1/3 rms agree closely with Raleigh distribution curves and parameters enabling the use of Raleigh distribution function in subsequent studies. Finally since the wave characteristics and wave energy climates are most important in the analysis of coastline changes, they are drawn from the data obtained from the analysis.
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