Four different kinds of wood pulp are used to make lyocell fabric and its intermediate products, and each is evaluated in terms of its physical characteristics and fabric hand values measured with the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics. The rank orders of fiber, yarn, and fabric characteristics as a whole suggest that H4 pulp is ranked highest for its physical characteristics, thus producing textile intermediates with higher strength and dimensional stability than the other pulp types. Comparing such physical results with the KES-FB rank orders, it appears that high strength and stability along with high elongation and crimp factors are less significant for characterizing fabrics with higher hand values. For lyocell fabrics made from yarns with higher CV%, the results are more favorable for increasing the hand values of numeri, fukurami, sofutosa, and shari characteristics, and such fabric hand as a total is an important requirement for women’s suit fabrics.

The yerba mate that grows in the subtropical forests of South America is an evergreen tree within the Aquifoliaceae family. The yerba mate (Ilex paraguariensis) tea is habitually used as a drink in Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay, and Southern Brazil. A wild mate tree needs about 25 years to fully grow to 15 a height of meters; however, they only grow to a height of 3-5 meters when cultivated. The leaves are 7-11 cm long and 3-5cm wide with a serrated margin. Yerba mate tea-based beverages are made from the leaves and stems of the mate tree. It is known that they contain a rich content of antioxidants and polyphenol, vitamins, amino acids, minerals and colorants. Dyeing properties of a mate plant in the silk, wool, linen and cotton fabrics were investigated. Constituents of colorant of mate tea are chlorophyll and carotinoid; in addition, it has more minerals such as (Fe, Ca, Mn, Mg, Na, K, Zn, and Cu) than green tea. Mate tea colorants showed good affinity to silk and wool fabrics. It was found that the optimum condition for dyeing was 30 minutes for dyeing time, 7 for pH of dyebath, and at a dyeing temperature of 80 o C. The maximum absorbance wavelength (λmax) of silk and wool fabrics dyed with mate tea were at 420-440nm; however, that of linen and cotton fabrics were at 400nm. K/S values of fabrics dyed under optimum conditions were 1.979 for silk fabrics, 1.541 for wool fabrics, 0.551 for linens and 0.465 for cotton fabrics. Munsell hue values of dyed fabrics measured 3.1Y-6.4GY for silk, 1.4Y-8.3Y for wool, 5.5Y-3.7GY for linen, and 5.3Y-1.3GY for cotton. All dyed fabrics showed hues in-between greenish yellow and greenyellow. Colorfastness to rubbing, perspiration and dry-cleaning of dyed fabrics with mate tea were very good; however, the grades of colorfastness to washing of dyed linen and cotton fabrics were poor, and colorfastness to light were poor.

The dyeing behaviors of berberine chloride, palmatine chloride hydrate, and Phellodendron bark extract on silk fabric were investigated to evaluate palmatine as another chromophoric substance of Phellodendron bark. The dyeing conditions were composed of combinations of pH (3, 5, 7, 9), temperature (10, 30, 55, 80 o C), and time (10, 30, 60 min). The results indicate that palmatine was comparable to berberine in the dyeing behaviors tested for this study and the results were statistically significant. The dye exhaustion and dye uptake of palmatine-CH were slightly lower than berberine-C, which however were not statistically significant. Similar to berberine-C, palmatine-CH favored a pH 7 condition for both dye exhaustion and dye uptake. However, palmatine-CH favors a higher dyeing temperature and longer dyeing time than berberine-C for superior dyeing results.

Chlorophyll is an abundant pigment found in all green plants, algae, and cyanobacteria. This study uses methanol, acetone and water to extract spinach and mate powders in order to examine the possibility of dyeing animal fibers with chlorophyll without chemical alteration. It was shown that methanol extracts of spinach and mate powders can be effectively used to dye wool and silk fabrics if the extract is mixed with water by methanol:water 65:35 v/v. Compared to methanol extract, the acetone extract showed lower chlorophyll yield and lower dye uptake. Water was not an appropriate solvent for chlorophyll extraction and dyeing. Spinach powder showed a higher dye uptake than mate powder due to the higher chlorophyll content than mate powder. It is possible that the chlorophyll dyeing of wool and silk fabrics is due to the hydrogen bonding between the hydroxy amino acids in fiber and the carbonyl groups of chlorophyll. These carbonyl groups are on the heterocyclic ring and the methyl and ethyl side chains of chlorophyll.

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