Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is a common problem while ascending at high altitude. AMS may progress rapidly to fatal results if the acclimatization process fails or symptoms are neglected and the ascent continues. Extensively reduced arterial oxygen saturation at rest (R-Spo₂) has been proposed as an indicator of inadequate acclimatization and impending AMS. We hypothesized that climbers less likely to develop AMS on further ascent would have higher Spo₂ immediately after exercise (Ex-Spo₂) at high altitudes than their counterparts and that these postexercise measurements would provide additional value for resting measurements to plan safe ascent. The study was conducted during eight expeditions with 83 ascents. We measured R-Spo₂ and Ex-Spo₂ after moderate daily exercise [50 m walking, target heart rate (HR) 150 bpm] at altitudes of 2400 to 5300 m during ascent. The Lake Louise Questionnaire was used in the diagnosis of AMS. Ex-Spo₂ was lower at all altitudes among those climbers suffering from AMS during the expeditions than among those climbers who did not get AMS at any altitude during the expeditions. Reduced R-Spo₂ and Ex-Spo₂ measured at altitudes of 3500 and 4300 m seem to predict impending AMS at altitudes of 4300 m (p < 0.05 and p < 0.01) and 5300 m (both p < 0.01). Elevated resting HR did not predict impending AMS at these altitudes. Better aerobic capacity, younger age, and higher body mass index (BMI) were also associated with AMS (all p < 0.01). In conclusion, those climbers who successfully maintain their oxygen saturation at rest, especially during exercise, most likely do not develop AMS. The results suggest that daily evaluation of Spo₂ during ascent both at rest and during exercise can help to identify a population that does well at altitude.

The aim of this study was to evaluate the prevalence of acute mountain sickness (AMS) among trekkers on Mount Kilimanjaro during the winter season of 2006-2007. A A total of 130 Finnish trekkers at Marungu route were asked to complete daily a Lake Louise self-report and clinical assessment score questionnaire with the help of a trainee Finnish guide during their trek to Kilimanjaro. A Lake Louise questionnaire score>or=3 indicated AMS. Altogether 112 mountaineers or travelers [54 men, 58 women, mean age 51+/-10 (SD) years] were studied. Fifty-nine travelers (53%) reached Gillman's Point or Uhuru Peak. The incidence of AMS among Finnish Kilimanjaro trekkers was 75%. The most common high altitude symptoms were headache, followed by sleeping problems and fatigue or weakness. The incidence of AMS is high among trekkers climbing Mount Kilimanjaro.The main reason for this seems to be rapid ascent. Kilimanjaro treks normally have a fixed timetable, and for commercial reasons there is little opportunity to spend extra days for acclimatization in the camps. Some contributing factors are preventable, so we recommend an educational program for all the trekking agencies that guide on this peak and, in particular, the Tanzania-based guiding agencies, which, typically, are driving these very fast ascent rates.

Objective: If the body fails to acclimatize at high altitude, acute mountain sickness (AMS) may result. For the early detection of AMS, changes in cardiac autonomic function measured by heart rate variability (HRV) may be more sensitive than clinical symptoms alone. The purpose of this study was to ascertain if the changes in HRV during ascent are related to AMS. Methods: We followed Lake Louise Score (LLS), arterial oxygen saturation at rest (R-SpO2) and exercise (Ex-SpO2) and HRV parameters daily in 36 different healthy climbers ascending from 2400 m to 6300 m altitudes during five different expeditions. Results: After an ascent to 2400 m, root mean square successive differences, high-frequency power (HF2 min) of HRV were 17–51% and Ex-SpO2 was 3% lower in those climbers who suffered from AMS at 3000 to 4300 m than in those only developing AMS later (≥5000 m) or not at all (all p < 0.01). At the altitude of 2400 m RMSSD2 min ≤ 30 ms and Ex-SpO2 ≤ 91% both had 92% sensitivity for AMS if ascent continued without extra acclimatization days. Conclusions: Changes in supine HRV parameters at 2400 m were related to AMS at 3000–4300 m Thus, analyses of HRV could offer potential markers for identifying the climbers at risk for AMS.

The most important finding in this study was that well-motivated and trained, self-selected individuals, who volunteer for a long-duration mission, are capable of maintaining high levels of performance, steady mood state, and a good level of vigor on a Mount Everest expedition lasting nearly 3 months.

Although the expedition generated extreme physical stress, this was not directly reflected on hormonal recovery times as it was similar to other much less strenuous events. Despite important variations, all hormones returned to baseline values within 2 wk. Nonetheless, physical stress would appear to have more long-term effects on blood lipid and hematological profiles.