Abstract:Consumers pay more and more attention not just to the safety and health aspects of ingredients entering their cosmetics' formulations, but also to their potency, origin, processing, ethical value and environmental footprint. Sustainability of the supply chain, preservation of biodiversity, as well as greener extraction techniques are hence very popular with consumers. Consumers are primarily concerned by the efficacy of the cosmetic products they use and continuously scrutinize product labels, so marketing arguments need to be based on rigorous testing and reliable results to support claims (anti-age, anti-pollution, etc.) displayed on the product's packaging. As a result, the increasing demand for natural ingredients with assessed bioactivities has profoundly modified the strategies adopted by cosmetic professionals to innovate in terms of actives. Sourcing and developing new natural cosmetic actives is a long-term procedure that is thoroughly described in the present paper, via the example of the design of both liquid and solid ingredients based on Quercus pubescens Willd. leaves extract, for which anti-age properties were assessed by a combination of in vitro assays.
When it comes to the development of new active ingredients for cosmetics, biodiversity is a rich source for inspiration that must be tapped in a sustainable manner to cause no social nor ecological damage. Agri-food by-products are therefore more and more considered as available biomass that can be reused to extract their maximum value to produce new cosmetic ingredients before returning to the biosphere. The process to transform plant waste materials into powerful cosmetic actives is thoroughly described in the present paper via the example of the design of a liquid anti-aging ingredient based on a Prunus domestica L. extract obtained by maceration of plums' dried leaves in propylene glycol. The subsequent development of an SPE (solid-phase extraction) methodology used to remove the propylene glycol to get access to the extracted molecules is thoroughly described as a means to follow the stability of the ingredient over time once formulated into a finished product.Cosmetics 2019, 6, 8 2 of 21 for the cosmetics sector [3,4]. These new environmentally-friendly habits offer valuable advantages: (a) reusing such "waste" material to get as much value as possible from every resource, which offers a unprecedented degree of traceability on the materials' origin as sourcing channels already exist and are secured [5]; (b) developing the potential of waste to be used as raw material enables the diversification of value chains for one single market segment and may subsequently imply the growth of farmers/producers' incomes, hence strengthening those sourcing channels; and (c) they constitute furthermore fantastic communication opportunities and with the appropriate marketing strategy, cosmetic brands can really connect with customers through their mutual responsibility toward the environment preservation and gain new market shares.This article presents a procedure to design efficient cosmetic ingredients while meeting the challenging consumer's demands for sustainability, naturality, transparency and traceability.In order to integrate those sustainability values into our process of ingredients' development and to take advantage of the "green" phenomenon, we accessed a wide range of by-products that were extracted using several solvents. Given the promising results already shown by our research team regarding leaves of Prunus domestica L. (Rosaceae) [6], special attention was brought to the potentiality to create valorisation channels for by-products of the plum industry (food usages mainly: fresh, canned or dried fruits, more processed products, etc.).Prunus domestica L. is a species of flowering plant that includes many varieties of plum trees. P. domestica is the most commonly grown plum in Europe over a wide range of climatic conditions: the fruits constitute a first-rate dessert, and are appreciated to produce tarts, eau de vie, as well as dried plums, known as prunes.The Blue Perdrigon (also known as Violet Perdrigon, Perdrigon Viollette or Brignoles Violette) is a very old plum variety cultivated in the Provence regio...
The ethical and ecological concerns of today’s consumers looking for both sustainable and efficient ingredients in finished products, put a lot of pressure on the cosmetic market actors who are being driven to profoundly modify the strategies adopted to innovate in terms of actives while notably being urged to switch from petroleum- to plant-based ingredients. To produce such natural cosmetic ingredients, agri-food by-products are advocated as raw material due to their reduced carbon footprint as they actively contribute to the worldwide improvement of waste management. The process to transform plant waste materials into such powerful and objectified “green” cosmetic actives in compliance with circular economy principles is a long-term integrated process. Such a development is thoroughly exemplified in the present paper through the description of the design of liquid anti-age ingredients based on Ribes nigrum L. extract. This was obtained by maceration of blackcurrant pomace. and the embodiment of this extract following its phytochemical analysis notably by HPLC-DAD-ELSD and its bioguided fractionation using in vitro bioassays.
Agricultural practices generate huge amounts of by‐products, often simply discarded as waste that must be processed at some cost. The natural by‐products revalorisation as raw material to produce high‐added value ingredients for various industrial sectors may pave the way towards more sustainable industrial practices, via an optimised utilisation of natural resources. Integrating the circular economy precepts to production systems is considered to be a more and more promising management solution to significantly reduce the environmental impact of economic activities. This article discusses the valorisation of Rosa centifolia stem to produce a natural extract with cosmetic anti‐aging potential. To do so, the cosmetic potential of 30 extracts obtained by maceration of agricultural by‐products in a hydroalcoholic solvent was evaluated: their activities, as well as their inhibitory activities of specific enzymes were assessed in vitro to identify those that could be used effectively as anti‐ageing actives while meeting the consumer's expectations in terms of sustainability, naturality, transparency and traceability.[1] A hydroalcoholic extract of R. centifolia stem revealed itself particularly promising due to its valuable anti‐hyaluronidase and antioxidant activities, and its interesting anti‐elastase and anti‐inflammatory potential. The bio‐guided fractionation of this extract allows the characterisation of three major compounds, e. g., isoquercitrin, quercitrin and euscaphic acid, never identified in R. centifolia previously.
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