The formation of collagen I is significantly decreased in photodamaged human skin, and this process is partly restored by treatment with tretinoin.

Background All-trans retinol, a precursor of retinoic acid, is an effective anti-aging treatment widely used in skin care products. In comparison, topical retinoic acid is believed to provide even greater anti-aging effects; however, there is limited research directly comparing the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on skin.Objectives In this study, we compare the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on skin structure and expression of skin function-related genes and proteins. We also examine the effect of retinol treatment on skin appearance. Methods Skin histology was examined by H&E staining and in vivo confocal microscopy. Expression levels of skin genes and proteins were analyzed using RT-PCR and immunohistochemistry. The efficacy of a retinol formulation in improving skin appearance was assessed using digital image-based wrinkle analysis. Results Four weeks of retinoic acid and retinol treatments both increased epidermal thickness, and upregulated genes for collagen type 1 (COL1A1), and collagen type 3 (COL3A1) with corresponding increases in procollagen I and procollagen III protein expression. Facial image analysis showed a significant reduction in facial wrinkles following 12 weeks of retinol application. Conclusions The results of this study demonstrate that topical application of retinol significantly affects both cellular and molecular properties of the epidermis and dermis, as shown by skin biopsy and noninvasive imaging analyses. Although the magnitude tends to be smaller, retinol induces similar changes in skin histology, and gene and protein expression as compared to retinoic acid application. These results were confirmed by the significant facial anti-aging effect observed in the retinol efficacy clinical study.

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We examined the expression of two groups of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), stromelysin and interstitial collagenase, in human skin cancer by northern blot analysis and in situ hybridization. Stromelysin-3 (ST-3) mRNA was overexpressed more than tenfold in 17 of 19 (89%) specimens of basal cell carcinoma (BCC) but in only three of 13 (23%) cutaneous squamous cell carcinomas (SCCs). Stromelysin-1 and -2 (ST-1/2) mRNA was overexpressed in three of 19 (16%) BCC and three of 13 (23%) SCC. Collagenase mRNA was overexpressed in nine of 19 (47%) BCC and three of 13 (23%) SCC. No mRNA for ST-3, ST-1/2, or collagenase was detected by northern analysis in 21 specimens of adjacent normal skin. Because of these findings, we examined the specific location of the ST-3 mRNA in BCC specimens by in situ hybridization. ST-3 mRNA was particularly abundant in the characteristic stroma adjacent to the invasive basaloid tumor islands of the BCC and absent in the malignant cells. Moreover, ST-3 mRNA was expressed and induced by phorbol ester treatment in adult dermal fibroblasts but not in keratinocytes. In vitro studies have shown that MMPs are involved in the degradation of extracellular matrix molecules. Our finding of ST-3 mRNA overexpression in 17 of 19 (89%) BCC specimens is consistent with a role for this molecule in local invasion of stroma by BCC. Our in situ hybridization data suggested that while ST-3 is not expressed by malignant basal cells themselves, these tumor cells may induce the expression of ST-3 in adjacent nonmalignant stromal elements such as fibroblasts.

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