Abstract. The environment of ebb-tidal deltas between barrier island systems is characterized by a complex morphology with ebb-and flood-dominated channels, shoals and swash bars connecting the ebb-tidal delta platform to the adjacent island. These morphological features reveal characteristic surface sediment grain-size distributions and are subject to a continuous adaptation to the prevailing hydrodynamic forces. The mixed-energy tidal inlet Otzumer Balje between the East Frisian barrier islands of Langeoog and Spiekeroog in the southern North Sea has been chosen here as a model study area for the identification of relevant hydrodynamic drivers of morphology and sedimentology. We compare the effect of high-energy, wave-dominated storm conditions to mid-term, tide-dominated fair-weather conditions on tidal inlet morphology and sedimentology with a processbased numerical model. A multi-fractional approach with five grain-size fractions between 150 and 450 µm allows for the simulation of corresponding surface sediment grain-size distributions. Net sediment fluxes for distinct conditions are identified: during storm conditions, bed load sediment transport is generally onshore directed on the shallower ebb-tidal delta shoals, whereas fine-grained suspended sediment bypasses the tidal inlet by wave-driven currents. During fair weather the sediment transport mainly focuses on the inlet throat and the marginal flood channels. We show how the observed sediment grain-size distribution and the morphological response at mixed-energy tidal inlets are the result of both wave-dominated less frequent storm conditions and mid-term, tide-dominant fair-weather conditions.

Large bedforms (dunes) are present in many shallow-water environments. Knowledge of their dimensions and dynamics is required for river and coastal management. In tidal rivers and estuaries, the interaction among hydrodynamics (which results from the action of river and tidal flows), sediment transport and bedform shape and size is complex. In the present study, the distribution and morphology of bedforms in the Weser Estuary, Germany, were investigated. Bedforms were identified in bathymetric data of monthly multibeam echosounder surveys along the navigation channel during the years 2009 to 2013. Their size and shape were characterized. Bedforms were present along most of the channel, except at the position of the estuarine turbidity maximum and where dredging is carried out. Average bedform length varied between 20 and 60 m and bedform height between 0.3 and 1.6 m. Bedform asymmetry varied spatially and temporally along the estuary. In times of high river discharge, bedforms were generally more ebb-asymmetric than in times of low discharge. The bedforms were predominantly two-dimensional low-angle dunes with their steepest slope situated near the bedform crest. A significant proportion of bedforms possessed a steep face (portion of the lee side steeper than 15 ). This implies that they are likely to create flow separation and a turbulent wake, with a strong potential to induce high bedform roughness. However, important variations in steep face area density were noted, both spatially along the estuary and temporally as a function of the tidal phase (ebb or flood) and the seasonal variation in river discharge. The results have wide implications in terms of understanding and modelling hydrodynamics and sediment transport in estuaries.

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Abstract. The environment of ebb-tidal deltas between barrier island systems is characterized by a complex morphology with ebb- and flood-dominated channels, shoals and swash bars connecting the ebb-tidal delta platform to the adjacent island. These morphological features reveal characteristic surface sediment grain-size distributions and are subject to a continuous adaptation to the prevailing hydrodynamic forces. The mixed-energy tidal inlet Otzumer Balje between the East Frisian barrier islands Langeoog and Spiekeroog in the southern North Sea has been chosen here as an exemplary study area for the identification of relevant hydrodynamic drivers of morphology and sedimentology. We compare the effect of high-energy wave-dominated storm conditions to mid-term tide-dominated fair-weather conditions on tidal inlet morphology and sedimentology with a process-based numerical model. A multi-fractional approach with five graduated grain-size fractions between 150 and 450 microns allows the simulation of corresponding surface sediment grain-size distributions. Net sediment fluxes for distinct conditions are identified: during storm conditions, bed load sediment transport is generally onshore directed on the shallower ebb-tidal delta shoals whereas fine-grained suspended sediment bypasses the tidal inlet by wave-driven currents. During fair-weather the sediment transport mainly focuses on the inlet throat and the marginal flood channels. We show how the observed sediment grain-size distribution and the morphological response at mixed-energy tidal inlets are the result of both, wave-dominant less frequent storm conditions and mid-term tide-dominant fair-weather conditions.