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Ten years ago, Hardy (1992) wrote a timely review on the major features of hair follicle development and hair growth which she referred to as a secret life. Many of these secrets are now being revealed. The information discussed in this brief review comprises the structure of the hair and hair follicle, the continuing characterisation of the genes for keratin and keratin associated proteins, the determination of the location of their expression in the different cell layers of the hair follicle, molecular signals which control keratin gene expression and post-translational events in the terminal stages of hair formation.

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Abstract.A precursor protein associated with the formation of the citrulline-containing intermediate filaments of the hair follicle has been isolated and characterized. The protein, with a molecular weight of 190,000, was isolated from sheep wool follicles and purified until it yielded a single band on a SDS polyacrylamide gel. The Mr 190,000 protein has a high content of lysine and glutamic acid/glutamine residues and is rich in arginine residues, some of which, it is postulated, undergo a side chain conversion in situ into citrulline residues. Polyclonal antibodies were raised to the purified protein, and these cross-react with similar proteins from extracts of guinea pig and human follicles and rat vibrissae inner root sheaths. Tissue immunochemical methods have localized the Mr 190,000 protein to the trichohyalin granules of the developing inner root sheath of the wool follicle. We propose that the old term trichohyalin be retained to describe this Mr 190,000 protein.Immunoelectron microscopy has located the Mr 190,000 protein to the trichohyalin granules but not to the newly synthesized filaments. This technique has revealed that trichohyalin becomes associated with the filaments at later stages of development. These results indicate a possible matrix role for trichohyalin.

:  Wool fibres are hairs and the term ‘wool’ is usually restricted to describe the fine curly hairs that constitute the fleece produced by sheep. In a broader sense, it can be used to describe the fleeces produced by related species such as goat or yak. Research into the biology of wool growth and the structure of the wool fibre has been driven by the demands of the wool industry to improve both the efficiency of growing wool and the quality of the product. Well beyond this very applied perspective however, the wool follicle is a unique basic research model for the life sciences in general. These unique features include, to name just a few selected examples, accessibility for studying the molecular controls involved in branching of secondary epithelial‐mesenchymal structures, the photoperiod‐dependence of regenerating tissue interaction systems, the origin of fibre curliness and follicle wave pattern formation, and the effect of alterations in nutrient supply on epithelial growth and fibre structure. In this review, investigation of growth processes in the formation of the wool fibre is broadly surveyed. The relevance and potential for practical outcomes through characterization of wool follicle genes are discussed and particular features of the wool follicle contributing to our knowledge of the biology of hair growth are highlighted. The practical potential of gene discovery in wool research is the provision of molecular markers for selective breeding and for altering wool growth and wool structure by other biological pathways such as sheep transgenesis that could lead to novel wool properties. In this background, the current review attempts to revive general interest in the fascinating biology of the wool follicle which is not only of profound economic and practical importance but offers an exquisite, highly instructive research model for addressing key questions of modern biology.