The dyeing and finishing step represents a clear hotspot in the textile supply chain as the wet processing stages require significant amounts of water, energy, and chemicals. In order to tackle environmental issues, natural dyes are gaining attention from researchers as more sustainable alternatives to synthetic ones. This review discusses the topic of natural dyes, providing a description of their main features and differences compared to synthetic dyes, and encompasses a summary of recent research in the field of natural dyes with specific reference to the following areas of sustainable innovation: extraction techniques, the preparation of substrates, the mordanting process, and the dyeing process. The literature review showed that promising new technologies and techniques have been successfully employed to improve the performance and sustainability of natural dyeing processes, but several limitations such as the poor fastness properties of natural dyes, their low affinity with textiles substrates, difficulties in the reproducibility of shades, as well as other factors such as cost-effectiveness considerations, still prevent industry from adopting natural dyes on a larger scale and will require further research in order to expand their use beyond niche applications.
Thermal processing properties are a key factor in the industrial processing industry. The obtaining of a PET-based hybrid composite multifilament with textile properties (yarns) is presented. The system is composed by ceramic silicon carbide (SiC) nanoparticles and a dispersing agent included in a PET matrix. With the objective to produce a suitable nanocomposite, the study is divided in three parts: (i) evaluation by non-isothermal crystallization of three different dispersing agents (two of them based on esters of montanic acids and, the other on an amide wax) to achieve an homogeneous nanocomposite; (ii) study of the influence of the concentrations of SiC and of the more suitable dispersing agent on the thermal properties of the PET-hybrid composite; and (iii) the obtaining of a PET-hybrid multifilament with textile properties together with its characterization by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC), Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and mechanical properties.
The accelerated aging of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) multifilament yarns containing nano or microparticles of titanium dioxide (TiO2), silicon carbide (SiC), or fluorite (CaF2) at a maximum percentage of 2% has been studied. For this, the yarn samples were introduced into a climatic chamber at 50 °C, 50% relative humidity, and an ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiance of 1.4 W/m2. They were then removed from the chamber after periods of between 21 and 170 days of exposure. Subsequently, the variation in weight average molecular weight, number molecular weight, and polydispersity was evaluated by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), the surface appearance was evaluated using scanning electron microscopy (SEM), the thermal properties were evaluated using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and the mechanical properties were evaluated using dynamometry. The results showed that, at the test conditions, there was degradation in all of the exposed substrates, possibly due to the excision of the chains that make up the polymeric matrix, which resulted in the variation in the mechanical and thermal properties depending on the type and size of the particle used. This study provides insight into the evolution of the properties of PET-based nano- and microcomposites and might be helpful when selecting materials for specific applications, which is of great interest from an industrial point of view.
The objective of this work was to assess the possibility of dyeing a substrate composed of non-textile industrial hemp using natural dyes from common madder (Rubia Tinctorum L.) and calendula (Calendula Officialis) and tannin and alum as mordants. The substrate used for the dyeing had a 25/75 hemp/cotton composition. The hemp raw material is an agricultural by-product that was subjected to mechanical and chemical treatments in order to cottonize the fibers, blend them with cotton, and thus obtain first 40-tex open-end yarns and then a knitted fabric. The latter was subjected to different dyeing conditions by varying the dye, mordant, and method for its application, type of water, and rinsing after dyeing. Measurements of the difference (ΔE) and intensity (K/S) of color and fastness to washing and rubbing were carried out. The results showed that dyeing of a non-textile residual hemp substrate is possible, and that calendula is a good option for dyeing it with tap water, tannin-alum set in a meta-mordanting process, and rinsing after 24 h. In this way, a contribution has been made to the circular economy of the textile industry through the use of more sustainable sources and products.
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