The collagen present in the dermis of the skin is a fibrous protein that fills the gaps between cells and helps maintain tissue flexibility. Effectively increasing the collagen present in the skin is an important goal for cosmetic research. Recent research has shown that soybean peptide (SP) has anti-fatigue activity, antioxidant activity, and the ability to increase type I collagen, while collagen peptide (CP) has the ability to enhance corneal moisture content and viscoelasticity, as well as to increase levels of hyaluronic acid synthesizing enzymes in human skin. Little documented research, however, has been conducted on collagen formation in relation to these peptides. Therefore, this research applied SP and CP with molecular weights primarily around 500 and preparations containing both SP and CP to normal human dermal fibroblasts together with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (VC-PMg), and used real-time PCR to determine the gene expression of type I collagen (COL1A1), which contributes to collagen synthesis, and Smad7, which contribute to collagen breakdown. In addition, enzyme linked immuno sorbent assay (ELISA) was used to measure collagen content in the media. COL1A1 gene expression at 24 h after sample addition showed higher tendency in all samples and increased with time at 4, 8 and 24 h after addition. Smad7 gene expression was not substantially different at 4 h after addition. matrix metalloproteinase-1 gene expression was higher following SP addition, but was lower after the addition of CP and SP+CP. Medium collagen content was higher in all samples and increased with time at 8 h after addition. Collagen levels were higher when SP and CP were added together.

Diosgenin, found in wild yam (Dioscorea villosa), has been shown to ameliorate diabetes and hyperlipidemia, increase cell proliferation in a human 3D skin model, and inhibits melanin production in B16 melanoma cells. It is also an active element in cosmeceutical and dietary supplements. Although the bioavailability of diosgenin is low due to its poor solubility and intestinal permeability, it was subsequently improved using a β-cyclodextrin (β-CD) inclusion complex. Recently liquid crystals (LCs) were shown to enhance the bioavailability of poorly water-soluble drugs. The purpose in the present study was to prepare diosgenin LCs and investigate the interaction between LC and β-CD in order to improve its bioavailability of diosgenin. Crystallinity and particle diameters of LCs in water were determined by small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) and Zetasizer. Pharmacokinetic parameters were calculated using the plasma content of diosgenin after its oral administration to Wistar rats. Regarding the formation of glyceryl monooleate (GMO) and phytantriol (PHY) LC, SAXS patterns showed the hexagonal and cubic phases, respectively. Bioavailability was significantly enhanced after oral administration of LCs prepared by GMO than after diosgenin alone. The bioavailability was further improved with the combination of LC and β-CD than LC and water.

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The permeation pathway of macromolecules and nanospheres through skin was evaluated using fluorescent isothiocyanate (FITC)-dextran (average MW, 4 kDa) (FD-4) and nanospheres (500 nm in diameter) in hairless rat abdominal skin and porcine ear skin as well as a three-dimensional cultured human skin model (cultured skin model). A low molecular hydrophilic compound, sodium fluorescein (FL) (MW, 376 Da), was used for comparison. FL penetrated the stratum corneum and permeated the viable epidermis of hairless rat skin, whereas less permeation of FL was observed through the cultured skin model, suggesting that the primary permeation pathway for the hydrophilic material may be skin appendages through the rat skin. A macromolecular compound, FD-4, was distributed through the hair follicles of the rat skin. In addition, nanospheres were detected in the hair follicles of porcine skin, although no skin permeation was detected. These findings suggest that appendage routes such as hair follicles can be a penetration pathway of macromolecules and nanospheres through skin.

Orally administrated diosgenin, a steroidal saponin found in several plants including Dioscorea villosa, recovers skin thickness reduced in ovariectomized mice, and plays an important role in the treatment of hyperlipidemia. Thus, diosgenin is an active element of cosmeceutical and dietary supplements. However, we have already elucidated that the skin distribution and absolute oral bioavailability of diosgenin is very low. The aim of this study is to evaluate the efficacy of diosgenin-cyclodextrin (CD) complexes in improving the skin concentration of diosgenin. The formation of the CD complex was indicated by powder X-ray diffraction (XRD), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and scanning electron microscope (SEM) studies. Oral administration of the diosgenin/β-CD complex resulted in a significant enhancement in terms of the skin distribution of diosgenin, maximum plasma level (C max ), area under the plasma concentration-time curve (AUC), and absolute oral bioavailability over those of the drug alone. These results suggest that the inclusion complex of diosgenin/β-CD can be used to improve low skin content of diosgenin.