Makeup accentuates three youth-related visual features - skin homogeneity, facial contrast, and facial feature size. By manipulating these visual features, makeup should make faces appear younger. We tested this hypothesis in an experiment in which participants estimated the age of carefully controlled photographs of faces with and without makeup. We found that 40- and especially 50-year-old women did appear significantly younger when wearing makeup. Contrary to our hypothesis, 30-year-old women looked no different in age with or without makeup, while 20-year-old women looked older with makeup. Two further studies replicated these results, finding that makeup made middle-aged women look younger, but made young women look older. Seeking to better understand why makeup makes young women look older, we ran a final study and found evidence that people associate makeup use with adulthood. By activating associations with adulthood, makeup may provide an upward bias on age estimations of women who are not clearly adult. We propose that makeup affects social perceptions through bottom-up routes, by modifying visual cues such as facial contrast, facial feature size, and skin homogeneity, and also through top-down routes, by activating social representations and norms associated with makeup use.

Age is a fundamental social dimension and a youthful appearance is of importance for many individuals, perhaps because it is a relevant predictor of aspects of health, facial attractiveness and general well-being. We recently showed that facial contrast—the color and luminance difference between facial features and the surrounding skin—is age-related and a cue to age perception of Caucasian women. Specifically, aspects of facial contrast decrease with age in Caucasian women, and Caucasian female faces with higher contrast look younger (Porcheron et al., 2013). Here we investigated faces of other ethnic groups and raters of other cultures to see whether facial contrast is a cross-cultural youth-related attribute. Using large sets of full face color photographs of Chinese, Latin American and black South African women aged 20–80, we measured the luminance and color contrast between the facial features (the eyes, the lips, and the brows) and the surrounding skin. Most aspects of facial contrast that were previously found to decrease with age in Caucasian women were also found to decrease with age in the other ethnic groups. Though the overall pattern of changes with age was common to all women, there were also some differences between the groups. In a separate study, individual faces of the 4 ethnic groups were perceived younger by French and Chinese participants when the aspects of facial contrast that vary with age in the majority of faces were artificially increased, but older when they were artificially decreased. Altogether these findings indicate that facial contrast is a cross-cultural cue to youthfulness. Because cosmetics were shown to enhance facial contrast, this work provides some support for the notion that a universal function of cosmetics is to make female faces look younger.

Our work demonstrates that the digital interface scales for 12 distinct aging features are highly suitable for use in clinical and epidemiological studies on skin aging by both dermatologists and non-dermatologists.

Septic shock is associated with a strong inflammatory response that induces vasodilation and vascular hyporeactivity. We investigated the role for tryptophan-pathway catabolites of proinflammatory cytokines in septic shock. We prospectively included 30 patients with very recent-onset septic shock and 30 healthy volunteers. The following were assayed once in the controls and on days 1, 2, 3, 7, and 14 in each patient: plasma free and total tryptophan, platelet and plasma serotonin, total blood serotonin, urinary serotonin, plasma and urinary 5-hydroxyindolacetic acid, plasma kynurenine, monoamine oxidase activity, and total indole amine 2,3-dioxygenase activity. Organ-system failure and mortality were recorded. Compared with the healthy controls, the patients with septic shock had 2-fold to 3-fold lower total tryptophan levels throughout the 14-day study period. Platelet serotonin was substantially lower, while monoamine oxidase activity and 5-hydroxyindolacetic acid were markedly higher in the patients than in the controls, consistent with the known conversion of tryptophan to serotonin, which is then promptly and largely degraded to 5-hydroxyindolacetic acid. Plasma kynurenine was moderately increased and indole amine 2,3-dioxygenase activity markedly increased in the patients versus the volunteers, reflecting conversion of tryptophan to kynurenine. Changes over time in tryptophan metabolites were not associated with survival in the patients but were associated with the Sequential Organ Failure Assessment score and hemodynamic variables including hypotension and norepinephrine requirements. Our results demonstrate major tryptophan pathway alterations in septic shock. Marked alterations were found compared with healthy volunteers, and tryptophan metabolite levels were associated with organ failure and hemodynamic alterations. Tryptophan metabolite levels were not associated with surviving septic shock, although this result might be ascribable to the small sample size. Trial registration: ClinicalTrials.gov; No: NCT00684736; URL: www.clinicaltrials.gov.

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