The research base for rock climbing has expanded substantially in the past 3 decades as worldwide interest in the sport has grown. An important trigger for the increasing research attention has been the transition of the sport to a competitive as well as recreational activity and the potential inclusion of sport climbing in the Olympic schedule. The International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) was formed in 2011 to bring together climbers, coaches and researchers to share knowledge and promote collaboration. This position statement was developed during and after the 2 nd IRCRA Congress which was held in Pontresina, in September 2014. The aim of the position statement is to bring greater uniformity to the descriptive and statistical methods used in reporting rock climbing research findings. To date there is a wide variation in the information provided by researchers regarding the climbers' characteristics and also in the approaches employed to convert from climbing grading scales to a numeric scale suitable for statistical analysis. Our paper presents details of recommended standards of reporting that should be used for reporting climber characteristics and provides a universal scale for the conversion of climbing grades to a number system for statistical analysis.
Although it is becoming increasingly popular to monitor parameters related to training, recovery, and health with wearable sensor technology (wearables), scientific evaluation of the reliability, sensitivity, and validity of such data is limited and, where available, has involved a wide variety of approaches. To improve the trustworthiness of data collected by wearables and facilitate comparisons, we have outlined recommendations for standardized evaluation. We discuss the wearable devices themselves, as well as experimental and statistical considerations. Adherence to these recommendations should be beneficial not only for the individual, but also for regulatory organizations and insurance companies.
Athletes adapt their training daily to optimize performance, as well as avoid fatigue, overtraining and other undesirable effects on their health. To optimize training load, each athlete must take his/her own personal objective and subjective characteristics into consideration and an increasing number of wearable technologies (wearables) provide convenient monitoring of various parameters. Accordingly, it is important to help athletes decide which parameters are of primary interest and which wearables can monitor these parameters most effectively. Here, we discuss the wearable technologies available for non-invasive monitoring of various parameters concerning an athlete's training and health. On the basis of these considerations, we suggest directions for future development. Furthermore, we propose that a combination of several wearables is most effective for accessing all relevant parameters, disturbing the athlete as little as possible, and optimizing performance and promoting health.
Laser class sailors have to hike out, i.e. hook their feet under the toe straps near the centreline of the boat and hold their upper bodies over the edge of the boat, to counteract the heeling forces generated by the sails. To identify the parameters that are associated with maximal hiking performance, this cross-sectional observational study measures various knee extensor and hip flexor muscle performance characteristics in 55 Laser sailors and correlates each with the area-under-the-curve hiking moment over 3 min of hiking on a hiking dynamometer (HM180). Our results showed that higher body mass and HM180 were significantly associated with better race scores (Spearman's rho = - 0.69 and - 0.62, respectively, both P < 0.01) in male sailors who participated in the National Inter-School Laser competition. Body mass (Pearson's correlation coefficient, r > or = 0.95, P < 0.01 in both males and females), maximum voluntary isometric strength of the quadriceps (r > or = 0.80, P < 0.01 in both males and females), and 3-RM knee extension strength (r > or = 0.80, P < 0.01 in both males and females) were associated with a higher HM180. The correlations between height, abdominal muscle endurance (crunches), explosive lower body strength (vertical jumps), cycling time-to-exhaustion, quadriceps strength endurance, or isometric quadriceps endurance with incremental loads (bucket test), and HM180 were weaker (r < 0.60). HM180 may be a useful performance indicator for Laser racing. Since strength measures correlated well with HM180, greater emphasis should be placed on developing maximum strength in the quadriceps to improve maximal hiking performance.
Reducing the mass of a racing wheelchair improves the winning time even for relatively small mass reductions over short distances (100 m). In this study, the improvement of speed and winning time on mass reduction was modelled mathematically, the speed profiles of 100 m wheelchair races as well as the rolling resistance and drag area of the athlete-wheelchair system was determined experimentally, and the improvement of the winning time through mass reduction was calculated from the mathematical model and experimental data. For winning times of 30 s, the relative improvement of the winning time is at least equal to the relative reduction of mass. For winning times of 15 s, the relative improvement of the winning time is at least half the relative reduction of mass. A reduction by 1 kg results in an overall improvement of the winning time of about 1-2.3% for winning times of 15-30 s (100-m race). In absolute terms, a mass saving of 1 and 5 kg on a 60-kg system would reduce a 15-s winning time for the 100 m by 0.132 and 0.66 s, respectively, and a 30-s winning time by 0.63 and 2.86 s, respectively. The mass of a wheelchair is the most important parameter for improving the winning time. The influence of the mass on the winning time is 4 or 1.5 times greater than the influence of the rolling friction coefficient, and 4 or 5.5 times greater than the influence of the drag area in a 15 or 30-s race, respectively. These principles should be considered when designing a racing wheelchair.
Elephant limbs display unique morphological features which are related mainly to supporting the enormous body weight of the animal. In elephants, the knee joint plays important roles in weight bearing and locomotion, but anatomical data are sparse and lacking in functional analyses. In addition, the knee joint is affected frequently by arthrosis. Here we examined structures of the knee joint by means of standard anatomical techniques in eight African ( Loxodonta africana ) and three Asian elephants ( Elephas maximus ). Furthermore, we performed radiography in five African and two Asian elephants and magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) in one African elephant. Macerated bones of 11 individuals (four African, seven Asian elephants) were measured with a pair of callipers to give standardized measurements of the articular parts. In one Asian and three African elephants, kinematic and functional analyses were carried out using a digitizer and according to the helical axis concept. Some peculiarities of healthy and arthrotic knee joints of elephants were compared with human knees. In contrast to those of other quadruped mammals, the knee joint of elephants displays an extended resting position. The femorotibial joint of elephants shows a high grade of congruency and the menisci are extremely narrow and thin. The four-bar mechanism of the cruciate ligaments exists also in the elephant. The main motion of the knee joint is extension-flexion with a range of motion of 142 ° .In elephants, arthrotic alterations of the knee joint can lead to injury or loss of the cranial (anterior) cruciate ligament.
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