Fragrance is an integral part of cosmetic products and is often regarded as an overriding factor in the selection of cosmetics among consumers. Fragrances also play a considerable role in masking undesirable smells arising from fatty acids, oils and surfactants that are commonly used in cosmetic formulations. Essential oils are vital assets in the cosmetic industry, as along with imparting pleasant aromas in different products, they are able to act as preservatives and active agents and, simultaneously, offer various benefits to the skin. Moreover, the stimulating demand for natural ingredients has contributed massively to a renewed interest in cosmetic and wellness industries in plant derivatives, especially essential oils. This has led popular cosmetic companies to endorse natural fragrances and opt for minimally processed natural ingredients, given the potentially adverse health risks associated with artificial fragrance chemicals, which are major elements of cosmetics. Among the high-valued essential oils used as fragrances are citrus, lavender, eucalyptus, tea tree and other floral oils, among others, while linalool, geraniol, limonene, citronellol, and citral are much-appreciated fragrance components used in different cosmetics. Thus, this review aimed to highlight the enormous versatility of essential oils as significant sources of natural fragrances in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Moreover, a special focus will be laid on the different aspects related to essential oils such as their sources, market demand, chemistry, fragrance classification, aroma profile, authenticity and safety.

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The oil obtained from the seeds of Nigella sativa L. (N. sativa), also known as black cumin, is frequently used in the Mediterranean area for its anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, and anti-cancer activities. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of the oil extracted from seeds of a N. sativa cultivar produced in the Marche region of Italy, and to determine if the thymoquinone content, antioxidant properties, and biological activity would decay during storage. Cytotoxicity and anti-inflammatory properties of N. sativa oil were tested in an in vitro model of low-grade inflammation in Simpson–Golabi–Behmel syndrome human pre-adipocytes. The fresh extracted oil (FEO) contained 33% more thymoquinone than stored extracted oil (SEO), demonstrating that storage affects its overall quality. In addition, the thymoquinone content in the N. sativa oil from the Marche region cultivar was higher compared with other N. sativa oils produced in the Middle East and in other Mediterranean regions. Pro-inflammatory cytokines (e.g., Interleukin (IL)-1alpha, IL-1beta, IL-6) were differently modulated by fresh and stored extracts from N. sativa oils: FEO, containing more thymoquinone reduced IL-6 levels significantly, while SEO inhibited IL-1beta and had a higher antioxidant activity. Total antioxidant activity, reported as µM of Trolox, was 11.273 ± 0.935 and 6.103 ± 0.446 for SEO and FEO (p = 1.255 × 10−7), respectively, while mean values of 9.895 ± 0.817 (SEO) and 4.727 ± 0.324 (FEO) were obtained with the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazyl-hydrate (DPPH) assay (p = 2.891 × 10−14). In conclusion, the oil capacity to counteract proinflammatory cytokine production does not strictly depend on the thymoquinone content, but also on other antioxidant components of the oil.

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The red flour beetle, Tribolium castaneum Herbst (Coleoptera: Tenebrionidae), is an economically important pest of stored products. As possible alternative to conventional insecticides for its management, plant essential oils have gained interest owing to their effectiveness and eco-friendly features. However, they also show some drawbacks, such as low stability, poor water solubility and diffusion, and limited persistence in the environment. A good strategy to overcome these disadvantages is represented by green nanotechnologies. Herein, we developed a nanoemulsion based on the essential oil from Pimpinella anisum L. (Apiaceae) containing 81.2% of (E)-anethole and evaluated its toxicity on T. castaneum adults and F progeny, as well as its morphological and histological impact. The aniseed oil nanoemulsion was characterized by the formation of a semi-solid interphase between oil and water; mean drop size was 198.9 nm, PDI was 0.303, zeta potential was - 25.4 ± 4.47 mV, and conductivity was 0.029 mS/cm. The nanoemulsion showed toxicity on T. castaneum (LC = 9.3% v/v), with a significant impact on its progeny. Morphological and histological damages triggered by feeding and exposure to the aniseed nanoemulsion were analyzed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and light microscopy. Overall, our findings showed that the development of nanoemulsions allows to improve the stability of P. anisum essential oil enhancing its efficacy against stored grain pests and contributing to reduce the use of harmful synthetic insecticides.